RIDING THE WHITE PASS & YUKON
- by R. Pendril Brown
In August of 2000 I was able to travel on the White Pass & Yukon steam excursion to Lake Bennett and here is an account of it. I
started after disembarking from the MS Veendam after a cruise from Vancouver to Skagway, arriving there August 27.
Of course, I had planned all along to take the WP & Y excursion train to Fraser, BC. Imagine my delight when I found out that
this year-the railway-s 100th anniversary-they were operating a steam powered train to Lake Bennett! This train operated only on
Sundays, and August 27 was the last trip of the season. I was really in luck!
Our consist was steam locomotive #73, the 1947 Baldwin 2-8-2, tender, a boxcar for baggage (for hikers) and four coaches. The
coaches were all of similar design-some were originals and some newer copies. They have no electric power but are equipped with
oil or propane stoves and have open vestibules-where passengers are allowed.
The train departs at 0745 and arrives back at 1630 hours-a good full day of narrow gauge delight. A box lunch is served at the
Lake Bennett station, a well maintained building from 1903. There was a good guide along, well informed on geographic and
historical matters. Fare for the round trip was $159 US.
From Skagway, the line quickly starts to climb the steep grades to the summit of White Pass and the engine really puts on a grand
show. The weather improved as we went and there was sunshine as we passed the summit at 2865 feet above sea level. At Bennett
we had 1 1/2 hours to relax while the locomotive was turned and a guided tour of the told town site was given by Parks Canada
people. Interestingly, there are no trees of any significant size as they were all cut down a century ago to make over 7,000 boats for
the Klondikers to travel down the lake to the gold fields.
There is lots of maintenance being done on the roadbed as the 13 miles from Fraser to Lake Bennett is being brought up to
standard-speed there is 15 mph for now. The regular trains only go to Fraser, but special service is being extended to Carcross for
2001. On the line from Skagway, however, there can be as many as 12 regular train trips occasioned by the arrival of up to six
cruise ships.
There was not a huge crowd on our train, one car was reserved for hikers in both directions. Tea and coffee were supplied en
route. On my particular day, there were only two ships and we only saw one other train, passing it twice along the way.
All in all, the trip was a very enjoyable and exciting experience. One day, I hope to be able to ride the train all the way to
Whitehorse once again
WHITE PASS & YUKON-INTO THE FUTURE
The cruise industry has brought new found prosperity to the century old narrow gauge line. The total number of passengers riding
the line in 2000 was 303,245-up from 274,000 in 1999. Just think-when the line was reopened back in 1988 (after a six year
closure) they carried 37,000 passengers! Year 2001 portends well as several new cruise ships will be added to the Alaska run,
bringing more and more people dockside at Skagway where the little trains wait to put on a show.
Plans are to make Carcross a regular destination for special excursions in 2001, making the line the longest operating narrow
gauge line in North America. This service is designed to cater to Europeans arriving by charter flight to Whitehorse, and will be
accessed by motor coach from that city. Steam will also serve this route. Future plans are in the works, as the line keeps working
its way slowly back towards Whitehorse. One day, we hope steam will arrive back in that city enabling operations along the whole
line once again.