OK, so I have finally succumbed to technology and am carrying my computer with me on a trip. Yes it’s a business trip, but some rail experiences can be fit in….So, herewith an account of the rail components of my August / September trip to the UK, and I don’t even have to take notes and then key it all in when I’m back!
Friday, August 29—after having flown Air Canada to London, and a good flight it was, I have settled in and am ready to explore London. After a hot dry summer, its raining today, but we head out anyways. I’m told that the local rail service is down for a week from Hemel Hemsted, and that bus substitution is expected. So, walk down to Berkhamsted station, and find quite a renewal in process. Rail work, bridge replacement, huge cranes and machines are all over the place, and a parking lot full of buses! Brits take this all very seriously, and it seems most of the town has taken this week off, because there are no trains, including my host! Trains obviously play a key role in their lives!
And so, I purchase my Travel Card, good for travel into London as well as on the Tube and buses all day, 11 pounds. The array of extra staff boards me onto a highway coach bound for the Hemel Hemsted station, and away we go. Other than it being along the streets instead of the mainline, it is just fine and we arrive Hemel, are directed to the platform, and head London bound the 0935, an eight car MU set of the Silverlink County service.
It is still raining—what to do? Well, maybe we’ll change at Watford Junction and head for Clapham Junction, Britain's busiest rail station. We can catch some trains from the platform where it will be covered. So, off we get at Watford, and find that there will be a train to Clapham at 1013. The four car MU set of South Central Railways turns out to be destined for Brighton. Off we go through a very industrial area, lots of rails to see. The rain continues.
As we approach Clapham, another decision. Let’s keep going! And so we head for the South Coast of England, clipping along at a good pace and arrive Brighton at 1210. Now—what do we do re the fare? Surely my Travelcard won’t cover this journey. Right, but the "add fare" process works fine, another 11 pounds will cover my return trip from the Zone 6 boundary.
Brighton is an interesting place, the stone beach, authentic fish and chips on the pier, and some sights to see. I walk around until I’m damp and want to head for cover, so back to the station to decide how to get back. Here’s an Express carded to Victoria at 1349, so I hop on board the six car train of new equipment, and we’re off. 55 minutes later, with just two stops en route, I’m in Victoria Station! Now to cap the day, a ride across town to Euston station on the top of the #73 route double decker bus, and head back to Berkhamsted. Rather than the County ( express) service, I choose the slower but different routed 1537 local service. That gets me to Watford Junction, where I transfer to the 1641 County Service, getting me to the temporary end of line at Hemel Hemsted at 1655. Transfer to the bus, back to Berkhamsted!
Saturday, August 30, and it’s a beautiful morning, clear and sunny but somewhat brisk. Its off to London, then, and a repeat of yesterday morning getting the Travelcard and the bus to Hemel Hemsted. This time I stay with the 0943 train into London Euston station, then hop on the tube Northern Line to Charing Cross Station. Its so nice that walking outdoors is in order, so across the Thames on one of the new Millennium foot bridges, around the London Eye and the Big Ben area. Then walk the Queens Walk along the Thames, and keep going all the way to Greenwich. After some lunch take in the National Maritime Museum there, then ride the Docklands Light Railway system a bit. It is an automated system, Bombardier built. I return from Greewich on the 1440 train, an eight car MU set into Charing Cross, the walk Trafalgar Square and double deck bus back to Euston. Now its late afternoon, so back to Berkhamsted on the 1545 train / coach combo—you really can get around this area, and all on one 11 pound 70p TravelCard!
Sunday, August 31—On to Northern Ireland, and some new territory for this traveler. The British Midland Airways A321 has a full load from London Heathrow to Belfast.
Monday, September 1—Bangor, Northern Ireland is a pretty coastal town or population around 60,000, located 12 miles east of Belfast. Although this is a work week, I don’t start until 1100 hours this morning, so an orientation walk is taken. First point of discovery, of course, the railway station. Actually, it’s a combined railway / bus station, the railways and buses being operated by an integrated transport agency called TransLink!
This is the end of the line, being the coast, so the station has three stub end tracks. The "morning rush" to Belfast is on, which means and express train departs half hourly followed by a local train five minutes after. The Northern Ireland Railways trains are diesel powered, with one car of the three car sets containing the control cab and diesel engine compartment, the other half coach seats. The centre car is a coach, the third car a cab control coach. The Express I see depart has two sets of these, the local one set. Travel time to Belfast is carded at 30 minutes. Now the bad news—the rail service will be closed all four weekends in September for major engineering work. Guess which days I have available to explore after I work through Friday? Oh well, guess it will be bus if I go to Belfast.
A walk around the Bangor Marina and harbour produces the discovery of the Pickie Family Fun Park, a local entertainment complex with swan boat rides, cafeteria, games, playground—and—a 7 1/2" gauge train ride. The tracks encircle the park, probably about a 2 km ride, and the route starts from a station to the south end where the loco is turned on a turntable, then proceeds around the perimeter with a loop around the north end and back to the station. So– depart station to one end of line, passengers off while loco is turned, retrace route and loop around the remainder of the route—sounds like a familiar formula. As for the train, the riding cars are very much like ours in that they are long straddle cars (five passengers each) with solid link couplings. The engine is a disappointment, though, an American styled old 4-4-0—gasoline powered with no rods connecting the driving wheels!
Friday, September 5—I have been working long hours all week with a seminar, but we wrap it all up at 1500 hours—time to venture out a bit. As the rail line will be closed all weekend between Bangor and Belfast, decide to take a ride this afternoon. Up to the Bangor station to buy a return ticket to Belfast, round trip fare 5 pounds 60 p. "You must buy your ticket from the ticket agent", the instructions note, no machines here. Up to platform 2 for the 1545 local to Belfast, here the ticket is punched by another agent, then off we go to board. The three car trainset is of the "modern" version, quite typical UK rolling stock with the diesel in the end of one coach, the rear in this direction. These cars have sliding doors that open electrically for access; inside low back 3—2 seating. I choose to ride in this car to see what it sounds like.
We pull out on time and the whole car shakes as the engine revs up—not an oppressive noise, though, just the audible sound of a British diesel design at work.. The ride to Belfast is slow due the frequent station stops, 10 stops in 12 miles. We arrive at Belfast Central station on time at 1617. I walk into the station to secure a copy of the new system time table, and am successful (Bangor was out of them). Having completed this mission, its back to the platform (another ticket punch) to catch a return train to Bangor.
Belfast Central is a small four platform station (smaller than I expected), but quite busy with trains at rush hour. The interesting thing is, its not busy with people! The little three car trainsets come and go, in the 20 minutes before my train there are five arrivals and departures, but not rush hour crowds as one night expect at 1630 on a Friday afternoon. The next Bangor train is carded for 1643—an express with no stops until Bangor.
An "old style" three car set pulls in right on time. This means it has old type manual swing open doors, and inside the seats are high back wire frame 3 –2 seating.
(photo, Northern Ireland Railways "Old Style" trainset approaches Belfast Central Station)
The windows are also old looking, with a slide open section at the top for ventilation. Each end of the train has a high mounted round headlight atop the cab roof. I climb aboard and have no trouble finding a window seat in the direction of travel—in fact I end up with a whole six seat section to myself!
1643 and off we go, the diesel is audible revving up three cars ahead. We really roll—no stops ahead, the little train rushes along on the new welded rail at around 65 mph, leaving the stalled traffic on the Motorway well behind. We make one stop at Bangor West, and roll into Bangor main station at 1659—just 16 minutes for 12 miles!
Saturday, September 6—Off to Belfast, and a ride on the "Rail Bus" - the substitute service during the weekend rail line closure. Buy ticket as usual at the station, then board one of two buses which alternate calling at stations along the line, travel time to Belfast, 45 minutes. We are off at Belfast Central Station by 0845, and walk around the city. When the rain hits, then there is always the #100 Centrelink bus, free with a rail ticket) which covers the city, using eight major stops. This gets me between showers and I see as much as I need to by 1100.
Back to Belfast Central Station, and on the Rail Bus service once again, this time to my planned major destination, the Ulster Folk & Transport Museum. I pay my admission (6 pounds) and start a tour of the 77 acre site. First up is the Irish Railway Collection, a new building which looks like a huge quonset hut (Gallery) which houses a wonderful collection of steam engines, coaches / freight wagons, and railway artifacts from all over Ireland. The artifacts and exhibits are well cared for and very well displayed.
Continuing my tour, the next building is the "Road Collection", and features motorcycles on the top floor, trams / trolleys / buses on the main floor, and automobiles on the lower floor. After this I continue down the hillside to the Transport Galleries, in which there are exhibits of horse drawn coaches, marine and air transport. A feature exhibit in the marine part is about the Titanic, which was built in Belfast as were many of the Atlantic ocean liners.
Miniature train next catches my eye, and I discover the Model Engineers Society of Northern Ireland (MESNI), which have their clubhouse and track at the museum and offer public rides on Saturdays. Rides are by donation, and a lovely 0-4-0 narrow gauge is ready to go, so we hop aboard. (photo above) The 7 1/4" gauge line is 1700 feet in length, and a ride is twice around. I strike up a conversation with the "Guard" (Conductor) and he invites me to the clubhouse for tea. They also have a raised dual gauge 3 1/2" and 5" gauge line.
I meet many of the MESNI members and we have a good chat, one of them has been to Vancouver and has ridden BCSME’s Burnaby tracks (both the old and the new). Now I’m expected to stay the afternoon! Next thing I know, I’m in John’s restored vintage car, a 1904 Reo Curved Dash, and we are off for a road tour of the Folk Museum across the way. Our half hour road excursion through the farmlands and the restored Irish village is quite a treat!
Back at the MESNI centre, a 0-6-0 diesel shunter is on the ready track, and before anything else can be said I’m in the rider car, shown the controls, and running on the line. It operates much as does Paul Roy’s RS-3 #561, with a clutch driven gas engine—push the stick forward or reverse for direction and speed. After several loops around the track, interspersed with the steam engine in regular service, I pull into the passing siding at the station and call it a day!
I walk up the road to find the bus stop for the "Rail Bus", the clouds roll in, and just after I board the bus the skies open! This day was made to be!
Sunday, September 7—My last day on the Emerald Isle, so time to see a little more before I leave. I’m up and on the first "Rail Bus" to Belfast, departing 0810. At Belfast Central Station, I check the schedules out and decide to head for Dublin. First Class return fare comes to 52 pounds, I will travel on the Enterprise Service. At 0940 the gates open to Platform 2, and I head for the First Plus coaches. I find a lovely seat in a modern, very well decorated and equipped car, with comfortable 2—1 seating facing tables, as is typical of UK first class train accommodation. The steward comes by with fresh orange juice before we depart.
Now this is a real train, not the commuter stock that serves the rest of Northern Ireland. We are heading south in push mode, the cab control car in the lead is a "First Plus" car as is the next car, in which I am riding. Next comes the dining car, then six coaches "Enterprise Class" and a six axle diesel locomotive pushing. Track speed seems to average between 60 and 70 mph.
We depart right on time, to both audio and visual "welcome aboard" announcements. First Class isn’t very busy this Sunday morning, only nine of us! Breakfast is brought to the table at your seats—I discover the seats move forward, up and down, as well as recline electrically, so you can move to the table to eat then ease back to enjoy the scenery! The "hot butter croissant with bacon and cheese is served with coffee and the ever present Wheaton Bread. We cross the border into the Republic of Ireland at some point near Dundalk (there is no sign or anything apparent), and then we cruise alongside the Irish Sea into Dublin Connolly Station, arriving on time at 1216k.
It's raining in Dublin, but I still take a two hour walk around the heart of the city, the main shopping areas, the river, and Dublin Castle. But it’s a quick trip, and I’m quite wet, so I head back to Dublin Connolly Station and catch the 1430 Enterprise back. This one is definitely busier, the one first class car is fully reserved and I take a seat in the tail end car. The ride back to Belfast is a repeat of the trip down, pleasant Irish scenery, a snack with Australian Chardonnay, and an identical consist to this morning’s train. We arrive back in Belfast at 1635, and catch the "Rail Bus" back to Bangor.
Monday, September 8—My Irish (now both Northern Ireland and the Republic of Ireland) visit has been a great experience, with a few more days there would have been lots more to see and do. But for now, it’s off to Belfast City Airport, and a BMI flight to London then Air Canada back to Vancouver—let’s see—as we will be catching time zones, this will be a 32 hour day!