Feature Article
A TALE OF TWO TRIPS - by Don Evans

As many of you know, your editor has had the good fortune recently of some business related travels, both in North America and in Europe. The nature of my business these days affords ample opportunity to have some leisure time along the way as well, and as you shouldn't be surprised some rail travel and watching too! And so, we present this month, a Tale of Two Trips for your reading enjoyment. The slide show to accompany this feature will occur at the August general meeting in Burnaby and the September general meeting in Squamish. Hope you enjoy the tales and come out to see the show(s) !

St. Louis and Chicago - May 2001

May 6: Its Sunday, and we are off for a week and a bit of an odyssey that will see us enjoy the cities of St. Louis and Chicago, fit a little business in with lots of pleasure, and ride a few trains as well. But for today, its Air Canada's A 320 to Chicago, where we arrive at dinner time and overnight.

Monday, May 7: On to St. Louis. Amtrak had called and changed our schedule, so we are at Chicago Union Station early for the 0705 departure of the Ann Rutledge for St. Louis. Our train is called and we board into our Business Class car and settle in. Consist is B32-8 #516, three coaches (Horizon / Amfleet / Horizon) and our Business Class Amfleet café car. Crystal (in the café) welcomes us aboard and gives us each a $4.50 voucher for café items.

We depart right on time, and follow CN rails out of town, then switch to Union Pacific (ex C&NW) for the remainder of the route. Along the way we see CN, UP, SP and CSX power on freights, and note things such as a GM&O freight house. Street running through Springfield, IL is neat. Lots of work is being done on this line; the reason for the scheduled change is to create a window for upgrading of this to 'high speed' trackage. Soon the bridge over the Mississippi comes into view, and we cross into Missouri and arrive St. Louis early at 1230k. It has been an efficient and quite pleasant ride. On arrival we note the late running Texas Eagle, which was due out at 0700! Is this an indication of things to come?

May 8 to May 10: We enjoy the city of St. Louis, the ride to the top of the arch is great and the city fabulous for walking. The Mississippi is in flood, and its interesting to watch the fire hydrants disappear as the river rises. No danger to St. Louis, just some waterfront moved closer in! We attend an American Museums Association reception (their conference just happens to be here) and attend to some business over a delightful dinner with an associate.

Rails wise, there is lots of activity here. The Terminal Railroad lines host trains from many lines, we see lots of BNSF SD70MAC's with coal and some of TRRA's own red locomotives. Union Pacific is busy with trains constantly crossing the bridge over the Mississippi. Amtrak comes and goes'the Texas Eagle northbound appears to always be at least three hours late. And riding the city's new Metrolink system (Seimens articulated cars on downtown subway / out of town rail right of way) is good.

Union Station is a special delight. One of the oldest large stations on the continent, it was rescued from demolition and restored'then turned into a shopping / hotel complex that is incredible. The 25 track train shed now houses the shops and restaurants, while the original station (1895) is fully restored and houses the Hyatt Hotel lobby, bar and restaurant. Sitting in the atrium bar is awesome, and the restaurant is the original restored Harvey House. Two tracks remain and house a TRRA switcher plus several private and dinner train cars, also an A-B-A set of F units.

Friday May 11: Off to the St. Louis Transportation Museum to enjoy the facility and approach them on behalf of ARM for the potential ARM 2003 Convention. We are met by Therese (Manager) and Molly (Curator) and are treated to a wonderful tour of the facility and its large collection. The St. Louis museum is a blend of County and volunteer operation, and has a well known collection of more than 140 pieces of rolling stock, housed on a site of 150 acres. In the collection are an 1896 steam engine off the Chicago elevated, two centre cab steamers, a Big Boy form the Union Pacific, a Rotary plow and more. The museum also house an automotive collection. There are a whole host of things to enjoy, too numerous to list here, but come out and see the show at the August meeting!

We then drive north along the Mississippi to Hannibal, MO, home of Samuel Clemens and the stories of Mark Twain. Now we do see the Mississippi in flood, as several small towns have sections under water, and the BNSF main disappears into the river at several places (it was out of service for almost 8 weeks). The sight of crossing signals standing in the river at Hannibal is unforgettable!

Monday, May 14: Back at St. Louis we arrive for our scheduled 0700 departure of the Texas Eagle (train 22) for Chicago. Having observed its tardiness, we don't arrive much ahead of 0700, and'true to form'are advised the train will be at least two hours yet. We head off to town for breakfast. Returning we discover that the problem is a re-route in Texas due to track reconstruction that will go on all summer. Typically it adds two hours to the travel time. Why don't they just rescheduled the train, we wonder, instead of having all the passengers here and at other stops along the line wait for over two hours every day' At 0925 she pulls in and we board the Superliner consist.

Our consist for #22 today is General Electric Genesis units #57 and 80, baggage car, transition sleeper, two Superliner sleepers, diner, sightseer lounge, four Superliner coache six express boxcars and two Roadrailers. A long train, and we head for Chicago at 0955. The ride is enjoyable, the long distance Superliner coach has lots of room and we enjoy the lounge car for much of the trip. Lunch is enjoyed in the diner. All is good, and we progress without delay arriving Chicago at 1620. Interestingly, before Amtrak called with the scheduled change we were scheduled from St Louis at 0945 with arrival scheduled for 1600!

Chicago is always a great city to visit, and we enjoy a few of the attractions during our brief stay. The lakefront is always delightful, and we ride Metra electrics to the Museum of Science and Industry where the restored Pioneer Zephyr is a hit. The 'train ride' interpretation is done well for the average person, they get an idea of what a more than 100 mph dash from Denver to Chicago might have been like in the 1930's. We also ride on the elevated (CTA) and a diesel Metra train to Evanston, IL. It ends all too soon, as we wing our way home on an Air Canada 737 May 17, after an enjoyable time in the Mid West.

London/Paris/Vienna, June 2001

This is one I have been waiting for, a chance to visit England again and my first ever trip to continental Europe. The research has been done, some plans made (such as a visit to the West Somerset Railway and the Eurostar to Paris), but what will it really be like' We're about to find out, as British Airways takes us over the pole on a B747-400. Met by my daughter on arrival, we drive to Berkhamsted where I will stay with friends. A visit to the platform of Berkhamsted station is made, in just a few minutes I am reacquainted with the busy four track mainline, with 110 mph Virgin Express and Royal Mail trains as well as the Silver Link county commuter services. In the short time a container freight even rolls through! But I'm supposed to be tired, what's going on here?

Friday, June 15: Off for a day at the West Somerset Railway (or a good lesson on how to be made feel like a king for a day!). The day started early, as I had some distance to go. The 0610 from Berkhamsted gets me to London Euston station at 0650, then its by the Tube to Paddington Station the departure point for the Great Western Rail services to the west of London. The WSR people have set me all up with schedules, I am to take the 0833 departure to Taunton and will be met on arrival. But I am at Paddington early, and'not being one to stick to plan'find I can go now on the 0745 departure. So, I board the Intercity 125 diesel powered consist and off we go, for the 162 mile ride to Taunton. Train is standard British fare, fixed seats in both directions, buffet style food service (at your seats served in first class, visit and pick up to your seat in my class). We arrive Taunton at 1000 where I intend to take some platform shots for a while. Now I discover that this is a large platform, and I am being expected on the next train, how will I find my pick up' Not a problem, as a person arrives with a sign that has my name on it. I meet Keith!

Keith is a volunteer with the West Somerset Railway Association and his assigned volunteer task for today is to show me around! What service! We drive to Bishops Lydeard station, and start by having coffee with the train crew awaiting their next departure, then tour the signal box and the museum there. At 1140 the steam train from Minehead arrives, and a DMU (Diesel Multiple Unit) consist departs. Shortly after, I am joined by WSRA Chair Humphrey (on my right) and WSRA volunteers Keith and Peter (to my left) on the platform and am presented with goodies including a lovely book and a video of the operation. Then we board the steam train for the 1225 departure.

The 22 mile ride to Minehead is great, with the steam sounds of the train working'there are several grades on this line unlike many British lines. Our 4-6-0 locomotive #7820 Dinmore Manor is in charge today, (photo, page 25) and the showery weather gives her some slippery starts on the grades. The five car train is nicely finished inside and the whole thing has a very authentic atmosphere to it. I never rode steam in Britain before, but I am convinced that this is exactly as it would have been.

And no wonder, as the West Somerset is a working line fielding as many as eight trains a day each way, almost all steam powered. The line has at least four steam engines in operation, three undergoing major rebuild, and others available. A diesel preservation group is located along the line as well, and guest engines often come to run in service. The West Somerset Railway is a full for-profit commercial operation, while the WSRA provides volunteers who assist and work alongside the paid staff, and look after the museum aspects.

We arrive at Minehead and I have to make a decision'if I want a footplate ride I will have to go back on this train very shortly, if I want to ride back later I will have to travel in a coach as the other engine today does not have enough footplate room. I reluctantly opt for the latter, as I really want to see the shops at Minehead as well as have a little time in the coastal tourist town. I am turned over to Mark, the Managing Director of the railway, don a safety vest and head off for a tour of the Minehead facilities. We start at the signal box where we watch the operation of the switches (points) and signals as a small diesel 0-6-0 makes up some of the weekend trains. Our 4-6-0 departs back for Bishops Lydeard with its next run, then we head over to the shops. Here we see a small but well equipped shop where three steam locomotives are undergoing a complete frame up rebuild. There is also coach maintenance for the WSR fleet, mostly 1950's era stock. It is a worthwhile tour, then I spend about 1 1/2 hours wandering the delightful town of Minehead, returning to the station just before a deluge from the skies. It has been an interesting and most delightful town, now I retire to the station platform to avoid the rain and watch the action.

The next train arrives, behind 0-6-0T #6412. I watch it being watered and serviced, then climb aboard for the nice ride back to Bishops Lydeard, where Keith meets me once again and, after goodbyes, drives me back to Taunton station. I have a long wait here as I just missed the 1700 train, but passing Virgin Express / Great Western / West Wales passenger trains and freights provide enough entertainment. I am glad to be aboard, however, as we depart back for London at 1910. From Paddington it's the reverse of this morning, Tube over to London Euston and then the 2154 Silverlink County service out to Berkhamsted'it has been a long but wonderful day! Thanks to everyone at the West Somerset Railway!

Monday, June 18: The next big day, Eurostar to Paris! I have caught up on my rest over the past couple of days, doing tours around the London area, and good thing as this will be a long day. I catch the 0526 Silverlink County service to London Euston, then subway across to London Waterloo'the station from which the Eurostar departs. I am booked on train 9006, carded for departure to Paris at 0723. I have gone whole hog, booking first class in both directions. Check in is quick and simple'I am amazed that my bag (Camera only) is not scanned (the equipment is there) nor my passport checked'perhaps at Paris' I look around the dedicated station area, and soon our train is called for boarding. I find first class coach #11 (there are 18 cars with a power unit at each end'a long train), and find my assigned seat. I had requested forward facing seats for the trip and seat 21 is a single (seating is 2 / 1) facing in the direction of travel. The seats are reasonably spacious (although less so than North American long distance coach class), toned in red and rust colours, but showing some wear. So far, so good.

We depart right on time at 0723, and soon are making our way along the tracks shared with other London train services towards Clapham Junction, where we veer east towards the channel. The ride is pleasant, but not at all that quick (probably 70 to 80 mph) on the British side of the journey, the channel tunnel is reached after a stop at Ashford at 0840. Meanwhile the meal service has commenced (one of the reasons for choosing first class is my intent to walk for seven hours around Paris and not wanting to spend Paris time eating!) Meals are served at your seat airline style from carts just as on a plane. Disappointingly, the food "while acceptable" is economy class airline quality.

The trip through the tunnel takes only 20 minutes, we emerge at 1000k French time and immediately pick up to TGV speed'285 kph. We fly across the French countryside, passing cars on the freeway like they are literally stopped! Passing TGV's going the opposite direction at speed is quite an experience. In what seems like no time at all, we pull into Gare du Nord Paris, and disembark. Now another surprise'there is no customs check or anything, we just walk off the train, into the station and out onto the street!

The next seven hours are a walking marathon of downtown Paris. It is my first ever time here, and I cover 14 miles and many of the major things to see'although seeing them means from the outside as line ups and thorough visits are out of the question for today. I vow to come back, my taste of Paris has been good and I want more!

Back at Gare du Nord I have a few minutes to marvel at the station, its more than 20 tracks, all handling high speed TGV trains and Eurostars. (Photo below) The other services are next door at Gare d'Est. I proceed to check in for my return train to London and am about to find out about Eurostar service. I had noticed coming over that my return seat would not be forward facing, so I ask to have it changed at check in. I am advised that this can't be done here, but I should see the people at the gate. I ask them, and am advised that they can't do that but I should see my car attendant at the boarding door of the coach. I proceed after my train is called, and ask the attendant at First Class car 11 about the possibility of a seat swap. He has a passenger list, and mumbles something about being full, so I board and take my backwards facing seat. Others board and the load is quite good, but as the doors prepare to close, there are still vacant forward facing seats so I move on my own to one (this train is non-stop to London Waterloo). I get a dirty look when the attendant comes through!

Things pick up, however, as the catering staff are quickly by as we make an on time departure at 1819 with champagne. It's a delight to charge out of Paris at 285 kph, past other trains on the commuter lines parallel, sipping champagne. We are really flying'the track switches on the French side are so smooth that unless I watch out the window I would thing I was on plain welded rail. Between Paris and Calais we pass 14 TGV's going the other direction!

Dinner service has proven better than breakfast, wines are served but the food quality (although with a choice of entrees) is still only airline quality. Still, after my seven hours of walking it goes down real good. We enter the channel tunnel at 1941, and emerge in England at 1901, then make our way back to Waterloo station, arriving on time at 2010. Only two hours and fifty minutes Paris to London! As I reflect on my Silverlink County train to Berkhamsted, I would definitely do it again but don't think I would pay the premium for first class again.

Wednesday, June 20: After a day of seeing London yesterday, its time to move on, and I'm on British Airways again, this time a 757 bound for Vienna, Austria. I settle in on arrival and take a pleasant first evening stroll into what appears to be a delightful city.

Thursday, June 21: And it is! The old city (which was walled at one time) has wonderful architecture, is great for walking (cars are restricted in several areas), has wonderful gardens and shopping, and a good feel to it. Music on the street corners varies from opera to strings, outdoor cafes bustle from dawn to late in the evening, I like it here!

And then there's getting around. While walking is easy and wonderful, the trams (see cover) and U Bahn (subway) are superb. You can get anywhere quickly and easily, but the PCC reminiscent trams (usually articulated units with a trailer car too) are my easy favourites. Inside they have varnished wood seats, and the oldest still have wood panelled walls and wood slat floors. It's the honour system of honour systems'the whole five days I am in Vienna I am never asked for a ticket inspection or to show it when boarding once!

While touring the city I visit two mainline railway stations and get a chance to see modern electric commuter equipment in frequent mainline service. Double deck cars (both electric MU type and locomotive push pull) are seen at several stations. A cute freight passes through one time with a diesel hydraulic 0-6-0 rod engine, a few cars and a green guard's van on the rear (yes, I have pictures). At Vienna North I note a historic collection that includes freight, passenger and a steam engine. Unfortunately it is on railway property and doesn't seem accessible'I shoot some photos with my 300 mm lens.

In addition to the architecture, palaces and music highlights, Vienna also has wonderful parks and gardens. I venture over to the Prater'Vienna's largest park area, which features an amusement park and the historic Ferris wheel. I have to ride the wheel, it has wood cars reminiscent of small rail cars that hold 20 people at a time, these ride the wheel and swivel to stay vertical as it goes around. Its wonderful'I find that two of them are outfitted for private dinners with curtains, tablecloths and all the trimmings!

Leaving the wheel, I head into the park area and discover the Lilliputbahn. (little train). The track gauge appears to be 15', so I find the station and climb aboard. Our power is a blue diesel hydraulic of local appearance, the driver sits inside it and the passengers sit in covered open-sided cars. The ride is pleasant, and covers around 4 miles through forest and park areas. There is another such operation in Danube Park, and they run pretty much every day (this is a Thursday). But the brochures show steam'where is it' A return visit on Sunday finds it'a beautiful coal fired 4-6-2 (they probably don't call them Pacific's here) is out and full of happy passengers. I have to make another trip and the ride behind steam is great.

Sunday is my last day here, and I venture out to Schonbrunn Palace and gardens'a place I could spend a couple of days. But I only have the morning, then decide to head back by tram instead of the U Bahn. I am getting venturesome now as I have my headings figured out, this trip is longer and will involve two changes. The ride is wonderful, and then'another discovery. My last tram, the #32 into Old Vienna, has a strange new vehicle. A brand new three unit articulated low floor tram! It is quite a different ride to the classics, but neat in its own way. There is air conditioning, automatic everything, and the ride is smooth and fast.

Monday, June 25: Its time to come home. A whole day and then some with British Airways, as I retrace my steps to London Heathrow and connect to my Vancouver flight'departure is at 1000 Vienna time, Vancouver arrival at 1820 Vancouver time'and there are nine hours time zone difference. You can make the calculation. Those of you who perhaps thought I was a little less than with it at the WCRA meeting the next evening will, hopefully, understand.

It was a great trip, one I'll never forget, and one with some great photographic memories, to be shared at our next month's meetings.

Back