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TRAVEL TALES—PART ONE - by Don Evans
It’s been some time since I wrote of my rail experiences on my travels, so here is the start of a great catch up. Riding the rails is always a highlight that I manage to fit into my trips, be they for business or pleasure. So, come along with me for some highlights from California, Italy, the ARM 2006 Conference, and the UK from the second half of 2006.
SAN JOSE - ROARING CAMP AND BIG TREES
Since my son Chris moved to San Jose, California in May it has become a place to visit more frequently than in the past. And so it was that I set out for my second visit on Friday, September 8th. Air Canada got me to San Francisco airport, and then it was onto the rails to head south to the San Jose area. The route – BART train from the airport to the Cal Train station at Millbrae, where I was able to take CalTrain south to San Jose.
Sunday, September 10th was our rails day, as we headed west to the town of Felton, California – home to the Roaring Camp Railroads. After exploring the lovely grounds, we boarded the first departure of the Santa Cruz, Big Trees and Pacific Railroad train, bound for Santa Cruz. The train was an eclectic consist of CF7 locomotive #2600 running long hood
forward, a truss rod wooden combine, two open cars (flat car conversions) and a wooden coach with green plush seats.
We departed on time at 1030 and headed off on a wonderful ride to the coast. The first segment was through towering redwood trees, which I hadn’t expected this far south, travelling through a State Park and following a river canyon. The view from the open cars was spectacular as we made our way downgrade To Santa Cruz. Here there was more fun, as the Union Pacific line runs along the street, dealing with vehicle traffic and crossing streets protected with genuine still operational wigwag signals!
On arrival at the waterfront, the train operates around the wye and backs along the Embarcadero alongside the boardwalk. Here we got off for a one-hour stopover and enjoyed the boardwalk, art deco casino and the beach scenes for which Southern California is famous.
All aboard to the blast of the monotone air horn, and we were off for the one-hour ride back to the “Camp”. The weather was pleasant and the locomotive worked upgrade in this direction, making for a fine rail ride experience. We arrived back at Roaring Camp at 1330, time for a short stroll, a look at the vintage cars show in progress, and time to board the narrow gauge steam train for the 1400 departure.
The Roaring Camp & Big Trees narrow gauge train was a real surprise. Motive power was lovely 2 truck Shay locomotive “Dixiana” (built 1912), which arrived with a trainload at 1345 and took on water at the water tank. A huge crowd was awaiting the train – how would they all be accommodated? The answer, add cars and soon #1 headed up a ten car train – all cars open wooden cars except the last car. This required the addition of diesel #40 on the rear – we thought just for pushing, but as it turned out it was also needed for the switchbacks as the tail tracks wouldn’t accommodate the whole train. So, at each switchback, the train was broken in two with the Shay handling the front and the diesel handling the rear – then reassembling the train after the switchbacks were done.
Away we went, Shay #1 going all out as we climbed grades of 8% and curved across towering wooden trestles. The Big Trees were big, all right, and the sights, sounds and experience spectacular. One wonders when this was all originally built – and the answer is that it was built as a tourist railroad in the 1970’s and has been hauling great, loads of passengers ever since. Reaching the summit of Bear Mountain, we had a short time to relax, and then we started back downgrade. The extra time at the switchbacks to break and reassemble the train put us off schedule – but who cared. Arrival was around 1615, and the final glory occurred as a boiler blow down was performed just before arriving at the station.
If you have never stopped here, and are travelling in the San Jose / Santa Cruz area, the Roaring Camp Railroads are well worth a visit. Both the standard gauge and narrow gauge operations offer unique and exciting rail action in a very spectacular scenic setting.
VENICE, ITALY—TRAINS AND BOATS, LOTS & LOTS OF BOATS...
September 15, 2006 – We were on our way to Venice – a snap vacation decision, somewhere we had always wanted to go. An early start and a long three segment flight was ahead – Air Canada to Toronto on an A 320, then Air Canada Toronto to Frankfurt on an A 340, and lastly a Lufthansa flight from Frankfurt to Venice. We landed at Venice airport late in the afternoon on September 16th, and caught a cab to our hotel – a Holiday Inn at Q’uarto d’Altino. Why there?, - well it was available on points, looked nice and new, and was directly connected to the Q’uarto d”Altino train station according to the website.
And, it was perfect in every way. The room was new and very nice, with a view of the double track mainline that saw passenger and freight, and local commuter trains to Italian Eurostars. The lobby sold train tickets to downtown Venice, just a 4 euro fare and a 30 minute or less ride. The station was out the door, and through a tunnel to the platforms. What more could one ask?
September 17 – Our first trip into Venice. We head to platform 3 for the 0714 train into Venice, and are treated to a show right away as northbound regional train with electric loco 464 253 pulls in with six single level coaches (below).
A good crowd boards and disembarks at the stop, and then it is off on its way. Must be ours next – but wait, the crossing signals clang, the operator comes from the station to the platform (as he does for every train movement), and a freight train of containers behind electric loco 657 122 roars through. (Page 25) Next up is our train—you get lots of warning as the crossing signals close the road well before the train is even in view in the distance.
We climb aboard the busy train and manage to find seats, and we are off. This is an express, so it quickly gets up to speed (around 70 mph) and makes only one stop on the way. Venice is reached via a long causeway across the harbour that carries both road and rail services, surrounded by water in all
directions. We arrive Venice Santa Lucia Station on time at 0740 and check out this busy place. There are 12 active tracks and trains of all sorts coming and going constantly. Walking though the station and out the front brings us to Venice’s busiest “street”, the Grand Canal!
What a sight! The waterway is jammed with moving watercraft of every description, including their version of the transit bus – watercraft called Vaporettos. (photo below, Santa Lucia station and Vaporettos). The network of transit routes on these craft is tremendous, and they navigate in and out of stops along the canals with aplomb.
Time to climb aboard – we hop onto a #1 – the local Vaporetto bound for Lido, and make our way to San Marco Square. These ships seat around 150 people, and there are literally hundreds of them on about 25 different routes. We purchased a “Venice Card” at the airport for 70 euros – this gives us seven days unlimited use of the transport system plus admission to 20 churches and ten museums. A great bargain! The views from the Vaporettos as you navigate the Grand canal are superb (below).
We explore Venice by foot and Vaporetto all day, then take the train back to the hotel exhausted but excited by all we have seen in our first day.
September 18 – a very rainy day! Once again we head into Venice early, this time carrying umbrellas. Little do we know the excitement that awaits us. We hop the Vaporetto #1 back to San Marco square, this time determined to tour the palace (it was too busy yesterday by the time we got there). This time we get in without too much delay when it opens at 1000, and really enjoy the tour of the rooms, the prison and the famous Bridge of Sighs.
The rain continues and falls hard. By the time we come out at 1130 the courtyard is almost underwater. We slog across to the other side and take refuge under a covered walkway, now crowded with people. We notice that raised platforms are being rolled out – we are getting to see Venice flood!
By 1230, the entire piazza is under water, and we navigate on now installed raised walkways. It is very crowded and people jostle for position. Many just take off their shoes and wade across on the regular walks. We find signage that explains all this – apparently this is a regular occurrence as Venice slowly slips below the waterline. When it rains, or when there is an exceptionally high tide, the walkways near the canals slip underwater!
We now elect for one of the pedestrian streets a couple of blocks in from the Grand Canal (turns out to be a good decision) and walk back through Venice on wet (but not submerged) walks to the train station area. Everything continues as normal, so we elect a covered canal side patio restaurant and sit down for an early dinner. The rows closest to the water are closed, but other outdoor (undercover) tables are open. We enjoy a great meal to the sound of rain on the roof, and waves from the canal lapping under the floor and causing wave action on the carpet from beneath! This is truly unique!
September 19 – off to Verona. Time for a train ride inland, and we start with the usual regional service into Venice Santa Lucia. Here we buy our tickets to Verona, and board a nice new double deck regional train (below).
The ride is very nice, and in a little under two hours we are in Verona. Verona is a nice town, centred with an intact circular Roman Amphitheatre that still hosts performances. We enjoy the next two days there, staying in a 14th century hotel in the centre of town, and walking the historic place that is home to the balcony made famous by Romeo and Juliet. A business associate of mine links up with us and we have a couple of wonderful local dinners, one in town and one in nearby Italian wine country!
September 21 – Back to Venice. We start today with some platform train watching at Verona station (Italian Eurostar above), then enjoy a repeat trip on the double-decker regional train service gets us back to Venice We make good use of the days remaining to walk all areas of the city, visit the Lido and the Island of Murano, famous for its wonderful glass (yes, we bring a piece home with us). It’s hard to describe just how unique and beautiful this place is.
September 24 – Heading home to Vancouver. A long day ahead as we repeat the three flights back to Vancouver, Venice to Frankfurt, Frankfurt to Toronto, and Toronto to Vancouver. And, all in one day as we travel with the 9 time zones! We arrive back tired but happy to have made the trip, and to have experienced this great part of the world.
Coming in Part 2 next month…..
ARM 2006 CONFERENCE, Sacramento November 2006
SOUTHERN ENGLAND AND THE ISLE OF WIGHT, December 2006
SAN DIEGO—SURFLINER TO DISNEY AND (ALMOST) BACK, December 2006
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