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For those of us who like reading travel books - and especially train travel, we have a fondness for Paul Theroux’s colourful commentaries of worldwide journeys. His travels across Russia are well remembered by this writer so a lifelong dream to ride the Trans Siberian Express was always on my agenda. A situation arose earlier this year that gave me the opportunity to do some volunteer work, attend an important conference and renew Russian acquaintances from Novosibirsk and the Barnaul areas of southern Siberia.
But first any trip to Russia must include Moscow so it was off to Europe late in May by Lufthansa en route to Frankfurt. After a 2 hour layover another Lufthansa flight took me on to Moscow arriving on the evening of the second day. Once settled into my centrally located Moscow hotel it was time to do some exploring. The Kremlin of course, and subsequent parks and gardens gave one an impression of grandeur, and the knowledge that you were in the capital city of a great nation.
And now to the rail travel. To get to Novosibirsk in south central Siberia you have a choice of Aeroflot, S7 Siberian Airlines, motorcoach or the Trans Siberian Express. Of course it’s the latter forthe 3300 km journey. For me train number 2, Rossiya, (The Russian) is the choice. The is the classic Russian train experience which for some will end in Vladivostok on the Pacific Ocean after 9,300 km and 6 days and 6 hours.
With new marketing ideas prevalent this train is painted in White, Blue and Red bands, (same as the Russian flag) instead of the grimy green commonly associated with Russian railway carriages. Three classes of service are available. First Class at about $375 per person per day gives you a private 2 berth compartment with a comfortable bed each. Second class is the same cabin but with 4 people sharing, 2 of whom will have small upper berths. Not surprisingly it’s half the price of first class. For super economy 3rd class is half again but you share a car without compartments and with 40 people in the same car trying to sleep on basic bunks. The restaurant car is ahead of First Class and offers good meals at “Tim Horton’s” pricing. Third class passengers normally buy their food from the numerous vendors lining the platforms at the infrequent station stops – or bring their own. Washroom facilities are good and the “provodnitsa” (car attendant) keeps your coach in immaculate condition with frequent trips up and down the corridor with vacuum cleaner and wiping cloth. Hot water is always available at the end of the car in the samovar. Great for soups, tea, noodles, etc.
Moscow has 8 mainline railway stations and the Trans Siberian Express leaves from Yaroslavskaya, one of about 4 situated close to each other just north of central Moscow. Our train leaves at 21:40 (every other day) in a southerly direction and shortly turns east through the southern suburbs. By midnight we have reached Vladimir Pass and early in the morning stop briefly at Gorki. The first stop off the train for most at about 09:30 for 20 minutes will be Kirov, a city of some 350,000 in a large agricultural area.
Major railway stations are huge by our standards with many the size and grandeur of Union Station in Toronto. They are well maintained complete with fresh paint, no graffiti or litter anywhere and occasionally flowers in large pots. Many are ornately decorated and pleasing to the eye. By late afternoon we stop at Perm. This city lies on the western slopes of the Ural Mountains and stretches along both sides of the Kama River, one of many huge rivers we cross that flow down to the Arctic. Apart from the railways these rivers are Russia’s commercial highways to the vast thinly populated regions to the north.
Our first class coach carrying Dutch, German, British and a few Russians is full except for a compartment reserved for a couple of smartly-dressed business-men who join us in Perm and strip down to shorts and tees before their overnight trip home to Ishim. Dressing down is the norm. Track suits and comfortable clothing is standard. Even “business casual” would be far too formal. The Dutch are continuing on to Irkutsk on Lake Baikal while the Germans are going on to Vladivostok. The Brits – who knows? This evening we cross the Urals into Siberia which here in the south are not much more than rolling forested hills. Once in Siberia, not unexpectedly the terrain is much like that traversed by Canada’s train # 2 - east of the Rockies.
By noon of the third day we have arrived in Omsk, originally built as a fortification for Russia’s southern border by Peter the Great’s guardsman Ivan Bucholz. Here the fast flowing Irtysh joins the quiet Om River for its long passage to the Arctic. It is Siberia’s second largest industrial and commercial centre. By late evening and after 46 hours we have reached our destination of Novosibirsk, often referred to as Siberia’s capital. Friends await me and take me to my clean, comfortable hotel before continuing days later by car for my business activities far to the south in the Altai Republic. This region borders Kazakhstan, China and Mongolia and I am no more than 100 km from all 3 countries for a weekend conference.
But back to the railways of Russia. The average speed for this portion of the trip is a realistic 73 km/h. Station stops average 20 minutes where locos are often changed and mandatory servicing is undertaken. Electrification and continuous welded rail is the norm with only short stretches of “clickety-clack”. Freight equipment ranged from ancient to completely modern, Soviet –era commuter trains were well maintained and ubiquitous. The infrastructure is solid with modern auxiliaries, test vehicles, and trackside equipment equal to anything in North America. The Trans-Siberian Express runs its entire journey on Moscow time so much like disembarking from an airplane you adjust your watch to local time upon landing. In Novosibirsk it was 3 hours later. In Irkutsk it’s 5 hours and in Vladivostok it’s 7 hours later than Moscow! The restaurant car tries to keep to local times but never seemed to quite make it consistently.
South of Novosibirsk a few kilometers is an excellent railway museum. It is not a heritage park but a museum in the true sense of the word. Rolling stock from the late 1800’s (the Czar’s carriages) to the last of the steam era is well displayed. Also included is vintage maintenance equipment, all types of locomotives, freight cars and vintage automobiles. It’s a must see if you are ever in the area. (photo, page 23)
After ten more days of meetings and happy visits over vodka, borsch and hearty Russian food it came time to return home. The thought of continuing east across Russian Siberia, another four days by rail presented itself, but getting out of Vladivostok means a ferry to Japan or a flight to Beijing. Another option would be to take a train straight to Beijing and fly non-stop to Vancouver. This option is very expensive so the return to Vancouver was westbound and all air. The Russian portion on S7 from Novosibirsk to Frankfurt was in a 30 year old Tupolev for 6 uncomfortable hours of lousy service, dirty toilets, loose seats and marginal food. An overnight stay near Frankfurt Airport prepared one for the cool, clean, efficient and courteous service of Germany’s National Airline en route to Vancouver.
It is not the writer’s inclination in this piece to relate more about Russia and its continuing struggle toward a free market economy. Suffice it to say it has a long way to go despite some pockets of bold entrepreneurship and modern first class service industries. Corruption is still rampant at every level of bureaucracy. And Soviet-style bureaucracy still reigns with foreigners’ travel carefully monitored every few days including introduction letters and expensive visa requirements being the norm.
As for its railways, they are impressive and obviously a source of national pride in the manner they are run and maintained. Long distance passenger equipment is modern or well refurbished. It is smooth and comfortable. Time-keeping is impressive by North American passenger train standards. Freight traffic is busy with frequent trains in both directions on the particular route traveled. Cargo, like Canada, is resource based: lumber, coal, petroleum products, sulphur, etc. Passenger trains are frequent much like those of the Europe most of us are familiar with. “Rossiya” provided a rare opportunity to enjoy a famous train excursion in a beautiful country with gracious and generous hosts. If you are interested in making the journey or would like more information, WCRA’s Tours Manager will be happy to assist.
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