Colorado—a place of many visits in my childhood, as I traveled with my family on the North American streamliners. We had passed through the state on the California Zephyr, arrived in Denver on the Denver Zephyr, and discovered the wonder of the Colorado Rockies. This had included the discovery of Colorado Springs, and an alternate rail route from Denver to Salt Lake City.
This alternate turned out to be a favourite for the family, and memories of that famous gorge of the Arkansas River were never forgotten. A look in the family photo albums (1962 photo, Jack Evans) confirmed the popularity—we traveled the route in 1962, 1963, and 1964—riding the other route of the Denver and Rio Grande Western, through the Royal Gorge on a train called the Prospector. Of course, the Prospector disappeared well before Amtrak, and now the railroad itself is no longer operated (although still intact it turns out). That was many years ago now, but the railroad went on to become part of the Southern Pacific, and later Union Pacific, which discontinued service on the route as it had duplicate track routes between Salt Lake City and Denver once all the amalgamation was all done.
But, the Royal Gorge lives on, and today is home to one of the most spectacular tourist rail operations on the continent. And so, in July, it was time for a long overdue visit to see what was going on in “The Gorge” today. A trip to Denver was on the books, and our friends (and WCRA members) Sharon and Jim suggested we take an excursion. Friday, July 20 found the four of us heading south from Denver for Canon City, Colorado, home to the Canon City & Royal Gorge RR. Travelling south on I 25 we witnessed a parade of coal trains on the paralleling UP and BNSF routes hauling coal to and from the Powder River basin using directional running on the two lines.
We arrived Canon City around 1100, just in time to hear an air horn sound as we walked towards the former Santa Fe depot there, now home to the CC&RG. It was a “rock train” headed by a pair of Union Pacific units hauling rock out of the quarry near Parkdale, about 12 miles to the west.
A short piece of history here, the “battle for the Royal Gorge” was a hotly fought contest between the Santa Fe and the Denver & Rio Grande, with all the drama and hi jinks that we saw in this part of the world as CPR and Great Northern fought it out for access to Southern BC. Both railroads came to Canon City and battled for position to build the line through the narrow gorge of the Arkansas River west of town. The canyon was so narrow at points that a line on each side would be impossible, so everything from espionage to fights to court battles went on. All things looked like Santa Fe should win, but at the end the Rio Grande ended up with the line, and both shared the track through the gorge—which for some time was dual gauge. And so it was that the D&RG went on to become the D&RGW , and the “Gorge Route” became the railroad’s second route to the west , ultimately becoming the route that UP would mothball after acquiring the SP.
But a strange thing happened—the UP agreed to sell a 12 mile stretch to a new company (called RGX) in the middle of the line, while retaining ownership both east and west of this segment. The east operates as the rail connection to the outside world (thus the rock train operation), the 12 mile segment also hosts the popular tourist trains of the CC&RG, and the line west of Parkdale is unused although all rail and infrastructure remains in place.
Soon another air horn is heard and in rolls the passenger train—and what a sight to behold. This is one long train (photo below). On the point (east end) is F7A #403, followed by five coaches and café car 3035, (all ex CN / VIA) open car 3225, three full length domes, a generator car, open car 3214, a full length ex MILW dome, two dining cars, a kitchen car (ex CN/VIA 9600 series baggage car), trailed by F7A #402 / F7B #1503 which lead westbound. Other than the domes (which have been recently acquired from Alaska), all are painted in the handsome Rio Grande mainline colours and lettered Royal Gorge Route.
Much of the equipment looks very familiar to this writer, and it should as the bulk of the train is 13 cars of ex CN / VIA fleet (same types as WCRA’s operating fleet) of 3200 and 5500 series CC&F steel coaches. The F units are the former Chicago & North Western “Executive F’s”, and the domes are two ex Milwaukee Road / two ex Santa Fe full length domes. The train is divided into two sections, the west end being the “lunch / dinner” train with full meal table service in both diner and dome diner, and the east section being the tourist train with coach and dome seats and a café car. Westbound (upgrade) the F7A / F7B combo provides the power, return (downgrade) is headed by the single F7A.
The train is very well patronized and a large crowd gets off, then we are boarded car by car. We find our table in the Theodore Roosevelt dining car (a home modification of a former CN coach) - it is very nicely appointed. The tables are identified by name card, and ours is riverside. We depart right on time and head west, following the river and soon entering into the Gorge. As we travel we enjoy a great meal of crab cakes and all the trimmings served by an attentive staff. It is truly delightful, but soon we are at Parkdale where we will stop and then head back to Canon City. It’s time to get outside and experience the Gorge.
We make our way to the open car as we start to roll eastward and are not disappointed. The open car #3214 is a cut open 3200 series coach (photo of sister car 3225 below), with truss rods added to provide the strength lost in cutting off the carbody. It works, and the view is perfect on a great day. Riding along the river we watch the white water rafters enjoying the river (which is actually quite high and muddy from recent rains).
The sight of the 16 car train with 3 F units snaking through the Royal Gorge is classic, and I recall our trips through here on the Rio Grande from 45 years ago as if they were yesterday. Its absolutely amazing how clearly the sights come back!
Soon more highlights come into view – the famous suspension bridge over the gorge more than 1,000 feet above as we look up at it, and the classic stop at the hanging bridge. Here the gorge was so narrow (30’) that the railway (the Santa Fe) actually “hung” the tracks out over the river on a bridge supported by both walls of the gorge. This became the Rio Grande’s most famous spot in the Royal Gorge, and passenger trains always stopped there to let passengers off to marvel at passengers off to marvel at the spectacle of rushing water and railway engineering.
Thankfully that tradition continues, and our train stops at the spot and we marvel at the sights and the sounds, with the added attraction of river rafters continually coming by in the rushing river water. Cameras click, just as they always have, then the air horns sound and we are on our way.
We roll into Canon City a little over two hours after departing, having experienced a great ride on a spectacular piece of railway, now operated in a first class style all the way. You can bet it won’t be another 40 years before we come back!
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