Ed. note: Art is a long time member of the WCRA, and has tracked the
local rail scene (BC and Washington state) since coming to the area
in 1959. He rode early WCRA excursions including the gas electric
car to Squamish and the West Coast Terminals steam trip to
Abbotsford in the early 1960’s. Art also edited the Tacoma NRHS
newsletter through the 1970’s and 1980’s.
I have been a railfan for a long time and have an excellent (although
recently frayed) memory. I’ve read books galore, can tell you all about the Mount
Sicker two foot gauge, the Vancouver
Fire Clay Co. Railway at Abbotsford, and I rode behind Englewood’s #113
in the 1970’s long before there were forestry tours there.
So, I felt pretty confident that I knew of just about all of BC’s
railways (including all kinds of useless trivial pursuit knowledge such as a
great mass of Texas Electric Railway data that Bob Gevaert used to needle me
about)! But I was astonished recently to find out about a real, live, standard
gauge common carrier railway that I had never heard about - right here in
British Columbia!
This railway has had more lives than could be reasonably expected,
having operated from about 1910 to 1913, again from 1928 to 1930, and almost
again in the 1970’s and 1980’s. Part of its roadbed now serves as the
highway into town. I’m speaking of the Portland Canal Short Line as its
second incarnation in the Roaring Twenties was known, originally it was
a Donald Mann project known as the Canadian Northeastern.
I first got a vague hint of the line’s existence on my newest grandson’s
first birthday, September 11, 1999 down in Algona, WA. Escaping the din of his
birthday party by going out to the workshop, I started leafing through a
reference book that my son had gotten for our Chicken Expedition, which
was to start the next day. (Chicken, Alaska is named Chicken because the
miners couldn’t spell Ptarmigan!). My son’s book, the 1999 edition of
the “Milepost”, has mile by mile listings for the Alaska Highway and almost
all the other roads leading to it. For the road leading to Stewart, B.C. and
Hyder, Alaska, the log mentions that the long stretch of straight road past
the cemetery is built on an old railroad grade.
What railroad? The nearest rail lines built are the old Grand Trunk
Pacific (many miles to the south) and the White Pass & Yukon (equally distant to
the north). The nearest proposed railroads would have been the twin narrow
gauge routes out of Telegraph Creek, at the head of navigation of the
Stikine River. The CPR got as far as building the steamboats on the river, while
the Canadian National actually graded about 20 miles and shipped in some
rails on the steamboats in 1899, but neither ever drove a spike. The Canadian
Trackside Guide lists some mine mules at two mines south of Hyder, but
nothing at Stewart. Suddenly, a visit to Stewart seemed a much higher
priority!
Two days later we roared through Stewart and drove the five km around
the point and under the banner into Hyder, Alaska. There were no US Customs
to slow us down, but the road sure deteriorated real quick. We drove
through town looking for a restaurant or motel, but finding neither settled for
a gift shop. We had to retreat to Stewart where we found the King Edward Hotel
open. Next door was the Bitter Creek restaurant, which proved to be a
modest treasure trove of historic photos, maps and booklets of - and on
- the Portland Canal Short Line.
Three pictures were on the wall; one showed a crowd of labourers in
front of a freshly painted (and lettered for the owner) 1910 vintage flat car
photographed in 1928. Another showed one of these flats, converted to a
side board gondola, being loaded by wheel barrows off an overhead plank
across the tracks. The third showed two flats behind an 1898 vintage
locomotive, either a ten wheeler or a consolidation, all lettered “Portland Canal
Short Line”, the 1928 version of the name.
On the entry way wall I found a map of the area which showed the
railroad. The line ran about 12 miles north from Stewart to a mine, or proposed
mine, at Red Cliff. It also ran about 2 miles south of Stewart, partly on
trestlework, across the mudflats to a deepwater anchorage and wharf complex at the
head of the Portland Canal. Also on sale was a booklet entitled “Stewart”,
which I bought thinking it was a history of the town and might include its
railroad dreams. It proved to be a reprint of the enthusiastic prospectus of the
plans of the 1928 promoters, and was quite interesting.
The proposed rail route turned east at Red Cliff, led across Bear Pass
(at that time blocked at the summit by the Bear Glacier) and followed river
courses to the huge anthracite coal deposits at Groundhog Mountain, less than 100
miles from Stewart. A further 300 mile extension would have got them to Fort
St. James in the Peace River country - another dream shot down by the Great
Depression! It is not known if this 1928 company actually built any new
trackage or not.
From authoritative sources, I learned that the Groundhog Mt. mine
actually was proven out by diamond core drilling in the 1960’s and 1970’s. The
beds are badly folded but numerous, wide and thick. If a market could have
been found at the time, the coal would have been taken out by rail - either
to Stewart or down the Dease Lake extension of the B.C. Railway. The Bear
Glacier has now receded quite a bit at Bear Pass, making construction of
a line easier than it would have been in 1930. Perhaps this inability to
find a market for the anthracite was actually the straw that broke the camels
back on the Dease Lake extension - who knows?
This little rail line may never have prospered, but just think of the
modeling possibilities! Camelbacks with Wootton fireboxes! Car barges to Prince
Rupert! Third hand wooden Pullmans operating until well into the 1950’s!
The mind boggles at the possible scenarios for this interesting little
line in Northern British Columbia.