(photo, Morning Star). Inside, they feature polished wood walls and classic walkover seats. Lovely! Here I need to comment on the ubiquitous Octopus Card—perhaps the greatest invention for getting around that there can be. Sure, lots of places have reloadable transit cards—but this one works everywhere! On the ferries, on the trains, on the buses, on the trams, even in vending machines. And, in a system where different modes are different fares, you just never have to worry about what is the fare? It is always calculated, and each time you use it it lets you know what’s left. You can even run a small deficit without getting rejected and then reload at any 7 /11 store (they are everywhere), station—or wherever you happen to be.
We are off the Star Ferry at Central Terminal, Hong Kong, and head over the elevated walkways above traffic and intersections to the core of the city. We had noted on the map the tram line that parallels the waterfront a few blocks in and thought this would be something to see. Were we ever in for a treat! Looking down about 5 blocks in, we spot tracks and overhead wire. Aha!
We find the car stop, and without having any idea where we will end up, board the first tram that comes along. We board at the rear and head upstairs—yes, these are all double deck trams. It is busy, but there are seats at the front of the upper deck—and open windows looking right out the front! We are underway, and the ride is classic single truck tram, with serious bumps into the curves, great sounds as we rumble along, and a view of the streets of Hong Kong that is spectacular.
We learn that these single truck double deck cars are the largest fleet of double deck trams in the world, and that they have been around for over 100 years! Over the week we are there, I note car numbers from 1 to 17x, and only the top three numbered cars are modern versions. There is one long trunk line with a total of 6 routes, all of which overlap at some point with the main trunk. It goes on for over 20 miles in length, one can see a huge amount of Hong Kong just by riding the trams—and we do, day after day.
Our car now splits off the main route to the left a block, and suddenly we are traversing a huge classic Chinese market. (Photo, rear cover) The tram slowly clangs its way through the throngs, which part a few feet ahead as we make our way along the street. Time to get off and explore this scene! We disembark through the front, tap our Octopus Card and it deducts 2 HK dollars—about 30 cents Canadian!
Now we are in the middle of very Chinese market culture. We are well away from the skyscrapers of the city, and walking through produce, live fish, hanging meats and other stands of just about anything you could imagine! We walk for an hour of so, then find a tram going the other way, once again secure front seats, and head back for the ferry . Later, back across the harbour, stroll around a lovely classical Chinese garden park, and call it a day. Our senses have been awakened.
Monday, October 13 - Time to try something different, so we decide to head out to the “New Territories” on the MTR (the rail system, runs the subways and rail in Hong Kong) and see how they handle wildlife. The subway system is very clean, fast and very efficient. There are a total of 10 lines, including one to Disneyland Resort and the Airport Express. Again, you just tap your Octopus Card and it looks after the rest.
We travel on the Tsuen Wan line (Orange line) to Mei Foo where we change to the purple line and continue to Tin Shui Wai station in the New Territories. Navigating the system is easy—station names are announced and designated in both English and Chinese. Inside the cars, above each door, and electronic display shows the line, where you are at the time in a series of LED’s that light progressively. The trains are long—usually ten cars or so—and open right through so you can walk the length of the train at ease.
We arrive at Tin Shui Wai and alight from the train, walking across the platform to the light rail network where we board a #706 (photo, left) which will take us to the Wetland Park. This place is most amazing—60 hectares of redeveloped wetlands with a massive visitor centre, boardwalks, nature, bird hides, mango groves etc. Look east—you see natural wetlands and birds, look west, you see the 60 story high rise towers of the new communities.
Tuesday, October 14 - Forecast to be potentially a showery day, we decide to take a day to Hong Kong Disneyland. This is the newest of the Disney theme parks, open just over 5 years. Again we hop onto the MTR and ride the Orange line to Sunny Bay, where we will transfer to the Disneyland Resort line. Steeping off at Sunny Bay, we step across the platform for our connection and in rolls the connecting train—complete with Mickey Mouse cut outs for windows, Mickey Mouse overhead hand straps and bronze Disney characters in glass cases throughout the interior. We are off, and it is a short ten minute ride to the Disneyland Station.
As Disney parks go, this one is in the early stages of development. It is the standard layout, with the railway station at the entry, the castle at the top of main Street and an assortment of some of the usual rides and attractions. The Hong Kong Disneyland Railroad goes around the park but—although it looks like a 4-4-0 steam engine - it is fake; the tender houses a diesel and ride on B-B trucks with traction motors.
What is amazing is the lack of crowds—all day we are able to stroll and never even a 5 minute wait for a ride. It ends up a warm and muggy day (but no showers) so we amble in and out of the air conditioning and actually have quite an enjoyable day.
Wednesday, October 15 - We have been awaiting this morning—one where the haze is not too bad and we can see the top of Victoria Peak—so we know where we are heading as we open the curtain and see the sun rising over the harbour. So, after breakfast its back on the Star ferry and across to the Island, then onto a tram a few blocks to where the map shows the Peak Tram, a cable pulled funicular that goes to the top.
The Peak Tram has been in continuous operation since 1888 and features classically styled but quite new articulated cars that navigate grades steeper than 30%. Not only does the tram go up
and down the mountain, it has five stops along the way where you can get on and off.. At the top is a preserved older version of the tram, one that celebrated the 100th anniversary of the system and would appear to be 1950’s or 60’s vintage.
The views here are spectacular, and we shoot off lots of images and then walk the 4 mile circle loop trail around the top of the peak. It is most refreshing here, a comfortable breeze and temperatures around 20 degrees C.
After lunch with a view (would you believe a Bubba Gump Shrimp Restaurant at the peak!) we head back down and enjoy the Hong Kong botanical gardens (right in the heart of the skyscrapers!), then hop another tram and head out to Happy Valley. Here there is an immense horse racing track and some good shopping areas. We complete the evening by watching the Symphony of Lights—a show that plays across the harbour every evening at 2000, using light beams, lasers and neon on the buildings of Hong Kong—it is quite a show to say the least. The Guinness Book has named it the world’s largest permanent light and sound show, it covers a total of 40 buildings!
Thursday, October 16 - Another plan for while we are in Hong Kong is to go out to Lantau Island and see the giant Buddha. One can get there by MTR and a sky tram, but we decide to take a ferry and bus out, then skytram and train back. We take the Star ferry to Central Pier, and change to another ferry for the one hour ride to Mui Wo harbour. The ferry ride through the islands is quite enjoyable, and the small harbour village of Mui Wo is classical Chinese small village. We have about an hour to wait for the bus, it turns out, so we walk the village for a while. We then board the bus—it is modern, 3 and 2 seating a bit cramped—and quite busy. We are off at 1020, and it is like a Monte Carlo ride! - racing along a narrow two lane road that crosses the island, then climbs up the mountain to around the 1,500 foot level where the Buddah and village are. Glad to get back on terra firma, we start the trek up the 256 stairs to the bronze statue that dominates the landscape from all vantage points.
After lunch and a bit of souvenir shopping, we head through the village for the skytram (gondolas). Boarding (again with our Octopus cards) we get a gondola to ourselves and settle in for the ride. And, what a ride it is! The Ngong Ping 360 offers stunning views of Lantau island and the South China Sea as it climbs to 2,000 feet and then descends to sea level. There are seven major towers, some incredibly long spans, and two changes of direction as we descend and end up right at the MTR station for the train back to the city.
Friday, October 17 - Our final day, so we just spend some time locally and take in a few of our favourite things. Walking the harbour, crossing on the Star ferry, riding a tram to the south end of the line, exploring Kowloon City Park, etc.
We end our evening with a must do—a ride across the harbour on the Star ferry with the lights going, and then a final tram ride (yes we managed front seats again with a little patience) enabling us to photograph the incredible neon light display along the streets as we make our final tour. Our time in Hong Kong is ending, but it has been great.
Saturday, October 18 - we are off to the airport and soon are back aboard Air Canada on our return flight to Vancouver, AC 008. The time plays tricks again here—we depart at 1230 Saturday Hong Kong time, and arrive Vancouver at 0925 Saturday! We’re glad to have made the trip and vow to return there again one day.
