As for the rail components, there were some interesting experiences. I always like to start by rating the overall against my expectations—which, I admit, were very high on this trip. European rail has a reputation for being on time to the minute—mostly so in our case; and providing high quality transportation—only a mid grade score here as we experienced indifferent service, equipment failures and not always the quality of accommodations expected of first class travel. But the transit systems were outstanding in every case—there just is no need to even consider driving a car in any of the cities we visited. An exceeded rating is merited here. Museums—well we did see a couple, two streetcar museums and one very warm steam train ride in Germany. But, enough of this—let’s get to some details!

June 4, 2002—we’re off aboard a Lufthansa 747 from Vancouver to Frankfurt, Germany, good service and an on time arrival. Frankfurt airport would not rate high on my list, but we managed our connection and were off on a 737 for Prague in short order. It took some processing at the Prague, Czech Republic airport, but our passports and visas were in order and soon we were in a pre-arranged taxi headed to the city. As we traveled into the town, we immediately noted the proliferation of trams operating the streets and private right of ways. This looked like a fun place.

We were told Prague would be beautiful, and it lived up to its expected high rating in every way. The old city was spectacular, being one not war damaged, thus its old buildings were intact. But more then that, here was a country and city in transition—lots of vestiges of the old days of Communism, yet a spirit of entrepreneurship at the same time. The old city was clean, freshly painted, and appealing to the visitor with a non stop history show in its people, its culture and its architecture. Prague would be a combination business / pleasure stop—2 days conference and 5 days pleasure—a great mix!

June 6, we try out the transit system for the first time, buying an inexpensive 24 hour pass for 75 Czech Crowns, and head off exploring. Prague has three “Metro” lines, colour indicated, and countless tram lines on the surface with connecting bus services all over the place. During the course of the day we ride the green line subway out to end of line at Skala, then return on three tram lines, the numbers 19, 8 and 17. Prague’s trams consist of a large fleet of Soviet era vehicles, usually powered car and trailer or two powered cars together, painted red and cream with rounded contours. There are also some newer units of both Hungarian and German manufacture. You never have to wait for the next one—frequency is awesome. They are also very clean for the most part, although there is some graffiti on the subway cars here and there. (but nothing like Barcelona!) A unique discovery is the funicular railway up to the top of the hill, its also part of the transit system. Up top, a great view and a replica of the Eiffel Tower!

June 8, it is a showery day and the conference is over, so we try a ride on the vintage tram #91 which does a so called sightseeing tour of the city. The tram is a delight, the service not. This is right out of the old era, operated by a motorman with a great moustache and beard and official air around operations. He is aided by two female conductors—how do I describe this—stereotypical of what I expected the old women to look like here—dark coat, heavy shoes, short and stout, kerchief, etc. They were equipped with the old leather pouch, badge number clearly visible, and barking orders very officiously! As the four wheeled tram #2210 navigated the streets, they had to continually tell people they could not board this tram with a normal fare or pass. The ride was bumpy with sharp turns as the four wheel bogie bit into the curves. At the turnaround we were ordered off the tram while the crew stayed on for their break, we waited patiently at the stop sign then reboarded. As we got off, after riding the entire loop of the line, we thanked them and one—but only one—broke a smile. It was wonderful! The remainder of our time in Prague was mostly spent walking—it was a wonderful walking place. Over the Charles Bridge (dating to the 1300’s), up the hill to Prague Castle, all over the place. A ride on the #22 tram to the end of the line was interesting, as in just 10 miles or so the city changed from tourism and entrepreneurial base to the former Soviet past—gray colours, slab sided apartment buildings, slow moving people. A visit to the Museum of Technology, built in the past era, was also interesting. Lots of rail exhibits, four steam locomotives (right) and presidential passenger cars from 1900 were great. Seeing a country in this transition was really something. All in all, it was non stop sights, sounds, food— a great start to our trip.

June 12—time to move on, and time for our first European Rail experience. We had decided at the outset of this trip to travel light, it would make it easier to navigate the various transport modes we had planned on. It worked well, I might add, as we checked out of our hotel and walked to the green line subway to start to the station. Transferring to the red line, we continued directly to Praha (Prague) Holesovice station, one of two main rail stations in the city. We validate our Europass and have reservations on EuroCity Train 73 for Vienna, about a five hour journey. The validation process goes without a hitch.

As we arrived plenty early, there’s ample time to enjoy the platform. Prague rails are not busy like some of the other cities we will be in, but there is action to catch—from a caboose hop with a freight motor, local commuter trains and other intercity trains for Budapest, Hungary and Hamburg, Germany. The platform is friendly, good seats, and diagrams of each train showing where the various cars will be located. Soon our consist, which originates here, backs in and we are exactly where first class coach #372 is to be. We board and find our seats—seat numbers are reserved and there is a reservation fee. We’re glad we reserved, as this is the only first class car on the train and it is virtually full as we get ready to depart.

Equipment on this train is from Czech Railways, our train has electric locomotive, five second class coaches (non air conditioned), one restaurant car (a full service diner), and our first class car. Our car has quite nice 2 and 1 seating, we have a forward facing pair of seats (I’m happy). We are late departing, leaving at 1107—ten minutes late. The view is nice, but the car is warm. Outside, it is around 27 degrees C. Soon, it is apparent that the air conditioning is not working, as the temperature climbs to almost 40 degrees! After some persuasive working, several of us passengers convince the female conductor to open a couple of the locked upper windows that can be opened—it gets at least a little better.

Time for lunch, and here a real treat. The full diner is cool, the food cooked fresh, and the service great. Menus are in Czech, German and English. We enjoy a glass of wine and toast the beautiful scenery as we travel through rolling hills, alongside rivers, and see lots of passing rail action. This is great! Border formalities are done while we travel, and we just make a pause at Breclav to change from Czech to Austrian motive power. Its on to Vienna, as we speed along and arrive at Wien Sudbahnhof (Vienna South) station on time at 1536. We find our way to the street, and climb aboard a classic Vienna Tram “D” and ride into the centre of the city, getting off at the Vienna Opera House ands walking to our hotel. After checking in, we walk a bit and buy ourselves Vienna Cards—for Euro 16.90 you get three days of unlimited use of the transit system plus discount admissions to all the museums and attractions. What a deal!

Vienna is a wonderful place, having sampled it last year I can’t wait to get back—and this time we have a week here! All of Europe is warm, and here it will be sunny every day with temperatures up to 30 degrees, but tolerable in the shade. Over the week we ride countless trams of varying vintages, travel extensively on the U Bahn (subway system), bicycle alongside and cruise the Danube River, walk extensively etc. The palaces and parks are particularly memorable, and Vienna architecture is a close rival to that of Prague—although different in its own way. It is a friendly and comfortable to be in city.

Some memorable highlights for this audience would include train watching on the mainline at the Danube River Bridge (below left), a switching yard below with constant action and a parade of action on both tracks on the bridge of both freight and passenger trains. Notable was a trailer on flat car consist with a twist—high speed electric locomotive, second class coach, and entire trucks—with tractors and trailers—on the flat cars. It’s a drive on drive off service that we saw in several Austrian locations, the coach is for the truck drivers who travel with the train, then drive their trucks off and continue their journey. Another was a delightful hour long light rail ride from the centre of Vienna (right) out to the town of Baden, with some fast running covering 45 miles in 55 minutes with stops. The subways, trams and rail services in Vienna are very clean and efficient, probably the best we experience.

June 18—our second rail segment, and one we have been particularly looking forward to. Its Eurocity train 162, the Transalpin, through the Alps to Zurich, Switzerland. We take the U Bahn to Wien Westbahnhof (Vienna West station) and board our reserved seats in first class car #312. This is an older compartment car, and a little tired. But, the air conditioning is working. Our compartment has six seats, two of them occupied by a mom and two year old—its is not going to be quiet! We depart right on time at 0916, and get underway. Right next to our car is another first class car—in fact the feature car of the train - a single level “dome” car, a European version of a Whistler Northwind car. Unfortunately, the seats are all assigned so it is not available for use by other passengers. There are empty seats in the smoking section, however, so we move there for a while and enjoy the view.

This is a long train, electric locomotive, ten second class cars (a mix of Swiss and Austrian cars, some compartments, some open coach style, all air conditioned), a restaurant car, our first class compartment car / first class dome car / first class compartment car. One thing you learn is that first class doesn’t really get you much in Europe—larger seats is about it. No meal or beverage service is included, there are no extra services at all—just better space.

The ride through Austria is most enjoyable, as we pass through Salzburg, Innsbruck, and into Switzerland. Lunch is another story, however, as the steward comes and advises everyone that the diner has lost its air conditioning and temperature is up to 40 degrees. He is closing, but we convince him to bring us some salads to the dome where we are sitting. They are fine.

The ride up and over the summit is reminiscent of our Rockies, lots of curves and similar speeds, the descent also spectacular. About half way down the grade we stop and are advised we will be held at least an hour for trackwork. At 1735 we are underway again, pause in Buchs to change to Swiss motive power, and then race along Lake Zurich into Zurich station, arriving 1 hour 15 late at 1945. It had been a long day, but we change and go out for a walk as well as to get some food—we are hungry after no dinner in the diner.

June 19 brings a very special day, as a school friend picks us up and takes us to the Black Forest area of Germany for the day. A highlight is a ride behind German restored steam 2-8-2T #86-333, down a 28km 2.2% grade with bridges, spiral tunnels and all kinds of neat things. This line was built to get Germany a route directly to Austria, in anticipation of WW 2, a route to avoid having to go through Switzerland. As it had to cross over a significant mountain range, the grade was challenging. It is reminiscent of the CPR east from Field, except for the vegetation, which is much more open with fields of brilliant poppies and lush green hillsides.

Zurich also has a significant tram system, again very clean and efficient, but no underground system. Articulated Mercedes trolley coaches would interest the bus transit fans, and the vintage Polybahn—a funicular railway dating to 1898—is delightful. Action at Hauptbahnhof (Zurich main station) was something to behold. Twenty four active platforms with a steady parade of high speed, long distance double-decker, and local trains made for non stop action. There was never a second without moving trains! We ended our Zurich visit with a pleasant five hour dinner cruise on Zurichsee (Lake Zurich), stopping all the way down the lake and back at small towns along the way while rail lines paraded trains on both sides of the lake.

June 21, a real rail day. Three trains will get us from Zurich to Barcelona, Spain in 14 hours. We board a Swiss long distance double deck train for the first segment, to Geneva. Easily the nicest train we would ride, (below) and how we expected European trains to be, it was comfortable, on time, busy and quick. The ride to Geneva was most pleasant—I don’t know how many were aboard, but we had ten two deck cars in a push pull consist. Departed on time at 0734, arrived Geneva on time at 1036. Now we had to change to a French TGV for the next leg. As we would be entering France, there was a separate platform and an entry through a passport control area. One hour before train time the door opened, we walked through with not a person in sight nor any sort of passport inspection. Our TGV pulled in and we boarded to find our seats.

This was a first generation TGV, still an impressive train. Unfortunately, we had backwards facing seats for this train, something I just can’t get used to on long distance services. They were comfortable, and off we went, again right on time, at 1240. The first segment of the trip, as far as Lyon, was at conventional speed and we wound through mountains and hills. From Lyon to Montpellier, however, we were open the TGV mainline and flew along at 285 kph. This is impressive! We arrive Montpellier at 1640, on time.

On to Spain—and we find our Talgo train that will take us to Barcelona. This is a classic—an early Talgo with stainless steel and red window band (below), and a completely sold out train. We find our seats in first class car 3, and board immediately as it is 35 degrees outside! Its cool inside, but like a time warp. The low back seats with brown upholstery could have come right out of your 1950’s living room, and there were yellow curtains on the windows. Although an all reserved train, there are plenty of seating problems and some people have to leave the train. We are glad we were on early with our reservations intact. Away we go, with good speeds from our French electric locomotive as we head for the Spanish border. The process here takes some time—not only do they stop the train for a strict passport inspection (some people are taken off the train and get left behind), but next we go though a wheel re-gauging shed where the gauge is changed from standard to Spanish broad gauge on the move! On we go, soon seeing the Mediterranean for the first time, and into Barcelona. A long day, but as planned, and the taxi ride to the hotel is short.

Barcelona is different again, and very hot, with temperatures close to 40 degrees every day. The Gaudi architecture is particularly neat, and we enjoy much walking the city. There are lots of people out, and although warned about pickpockets repeatedly, we see or experience nothing untoward. Barcelona’s Metro system is efficient and clearly the best way to get around the city, it is air conditioned and cool. But it is also the dirtiest we have experienced, with lots of graffiti and windows scratched and etched by vandals.

A highlight is a train ride out to the little beach town of Sitges, a wonderful small town Mediterranean experience. The trip is about an hour, and a complete change from the cityscapes. Some platform time at the classic Spanish station yields lots of action on the Mediterranean coast mainline; Talgos, commuter trains both single deck and double deck, and freight action with both electric and diesel power. A work train ambles by, sounds awfully familiar, and it is—a Canadian built GMD unit with either 567 or 645 power unit!

June 27 / 28—dates that will long be remembered! We decide to have a last dinner out by the Mediterranean Sea, and select a classy restaurant with harbour view and open patio. Unfortunately, an hour after eating the fish meal I am violently ill. Our last night at the lovely Gallery Hotel in Barcelona will not be my fondest. Next morning, after little rest at all and still feeling blue, we must head off for Barcelona Sants station. We have a major reserved plan today, Talgo train back to Montpellier, TGV to Paris and then the Eurostar through the Chunnel to London. Given the situation, we decide to taxi to the station instead of trying to descend and ascend by foot from subway stations, definitely a good plan as there is a taxi waiting outside and they are very inexpensive in Barcelona.

I start to feel human again as we relax at the station, but am getting worried when our train is not posted for departure on the board, and it is due in 30 minutes. I go to the ticket window to inquire its status, the agent says, “Oh, that train is on strike today!” I ask what my options are, and she says I can get my reservation stamped at an office on the other side of the station so it can be refunded, and then try tomorrow. When I suggest that won’t work as we have flights home from London to get to, she says there is nothing she can do. If we want to try a local train to the French border and then see where we can get to from there, there will be one at 1030! We retreat to a bench to consider our options. Pulling out the Euro Rail timetables, it is clear that even if we got to France and found another way to Paris, we would never make the last Eurostar of the day and would not be able to get to London. So, its either see if we can get a flight to London or stay over in Barcelona. We hop on a train to the airport The airport is a zoo, and it is our first time there as we arrived by train, of course. The Rotary International Convention (which we had attended) has ended yesterday and there are 17,000 Rotarians leaving town! Not sure who even flies from Barcelona to London, we make a couple of inquiries with discount carriers who advise that everything is sold out today. Then we see a carrier log and discover British Airways is in another terminal, and I have BA frequent flyer status. They have several flights a day to London, but will they have any space? Presenting my Executive Club credentials and our dilemma to the agent, he goes to work and manages to find us the only two seats he has today, full fare business class on a 1330k flight. We take them, and go to the lounge where we can relax. My last evening problems have now been left behind and I am feeling fine and ready to go, but disappointed at missing the TGV / Eurostar part of the trip. One thing about a Europass, if you can’t use it you just don’t get to use it.

We board the B 767 and have a smooth flight to London Heathrow, clear passport control and are now in England. We decide, as we have time, to take the bargain route into town—the London Underground. We have an uneventful 45 minute ride, and disembark at Euston Station, as that is where we will depart from to go to our friends’ place for the next two nights. We “Tube” (Underground) over to Waterloo station and go to the Eurostar ticket counter to advise them we will not be on the train we were booked on and get a stamp to see if we can get refunds (that can only be done after we are home and through the booking agent, we are told. We realize that we are in London at the destination end of our journey four hours before we were scheduled to board in Paris! As we go to press we have no refunds yet.

We wander London for the rest of the day, then catch our friends at home around 1900 hours (we had not been expected until after 2100), and proceeded to catch the Silverlink County (commuter train) service out to Berkhamsted. I have reported on some British Rail experiences before, and we rode nothing rail wise this trip here other than the Silverlink in and out of London Euston and the Underground in the city, so will dispense with details here. It was nice to enjoy London for a couple of days and see some of the Golden Jubilee banners and décor, and we had good weather and a jolly good time.

June 30—its all about to end. Delivered back to London Heathrow, we manage to alter our return itinerary from routing via Toronto to a direct flight to Vancouver (thanks Air Canada), and are on our way on a beautiful Airbus A340, arriving home 1900 hours after four weeks of European bliss.

Our Eurrail experiences have not quite all lived up to our high expectations, but all in all have been fine for what we wanted to do. We’re glad we reserved our seats as some segments were busy, were disappointed at some of the equipment failures, but generally would do it again.

In fact, we both declare the next day that we’d go again tomorrow—but it will have to wait a bit longer then that. For sure, though, there will be more European exploration in our future if we can manage it.