It was time for the annual pilgrimage to the Annual Convention and Meeting
of the Association of Railway Museums, and this year's would prove to be a
great one. Combined with the Tourist Railroad Association, this joint
gathering was to be held in Salisbury, North Carolina—just a little way from
Spencer, home of the North Carolina Transportation Museum housed in the
former Southern Railway main shops. September 11th had impacted lots of
things by now. Among them, perhaps the hardest hit next to the terror
victims themselves, was the airline industry. A couple of weeks before my
scheduled departure on a non-stop to Washington, DC, Air Canada called to
say that flight was now history, but they would get me there through Eastern
Canada.
And so it was that on Saturday, November 3, I was on board Air Canada
flight 150 for Montreal, a Boeing 767. At Montreal Dorval I connected to
flight 1820 to Washington, Dulles—a Canadair Regional Jet. Arrival at
Washington was on time, and I then van-pooled into the city for a couple of
nights.
Sunday, November 4 was unplanned, but it was a beautiful morning so I
decided to go to nearby Baltimore—a city I had never before stopped in. A
pleasant walk to Washington's fabulous Union Station, noting significantly
increased security along the way. Concrete barriers were everywhere
protecting buildings from being accessed by vehicles—including the station.
Amtrak is busy, but I have no problem purchasing an unreserved return
ticket to Baltimore ($42), and board the next available train, an Acela
Regional train going all the way to Boston with an AEM 7 electric for power
and nine Amfleet cars. I settle into a redone Amfleet coach, it is pleasant in
new colours and new seats. Ride to Baltimore is delayed en route slightly
due signal problems, we arrive ten minutes late.
While en route I have decided to try the new Baltimore LRT system, check
out the harbour front and visit the B & O Museum. On arrival at Baltimore's
Penn station, I find the LRT out of service for the day due trackwork (it is
Sunday) and so I head off along Charles St. on foot. This turns out to be just
fine, as it is a pleasant sunny morning and the architecture is quite
interesting. It takes about 35 minutes (I have no map), but find the harbour
front with no trouble and discover a wonderful and enjoyable place. Even
take a water taxi harbour tour!
After lunch, I walk over to the B & O Railroad Museum, without a doubt
home to one of the most historic collections of railroad history on the
continent. As the first railroad on the North American continent, the B & O
has some significant history, and it is well presented here in conjunction
with the Smithsonian organization supporting the facility.
And what a facility it is. The only fully circular enclosed roundhouse on this
continent, the museum's historic collection fills the stalls of this wonderful
cupola topped structure, with cast iron, brick and frame construction. Staring
straight up at a fully circular building is really something. Having a polished
hardwood floored turntable in the exact centre to access all the stalls unique.
It is clean, bright, functional and incredibly beautiful!
Steam locomotives (original and replica) tell the story of the birth of
railroading in North America, and the B & O collections policy appears well
managed and focused. This is a collection that represents its railroad of
interpretation from start to finish, when it merged into the C & O and then
becoming part of the Chessie System (CSX today).
Outside, there is much more collection and, while still representative of the
B & O, it is much more typical of railway museums. The challenges of
storage and weather are apparent, although the whole thing is more
professional than most by quite a bit. I spend about four hours here and find
only two things a bit unusual—first, you don't get aboard any of the artifacts
in the collection (I understand preservation, but came away with no
understanding of what it would have been like to be on a train in those days),
not even the interiors of passenger cars were well lit for viewing from the
outside. Second, the placing of several locomotives and cars in the parking
lot made it difficult for viewing and impossible for any sort of reasonable
photographing. Reading (American Freedom Train) #2101 sits out here
looking poorly). Still, certainly worth a visit and among the best.
I walked back to Penn station and timed it perfectly—as I arrived Acela
Regional train #157 bound for Washington pulled in. I board, find a seat and
enjoy another quick and comfortable ride along the Corridor, then take the
Washington Metro (its dark now) back to my hotel.
Monday, November 5, back to Union Station but by taxi this time, I have my
luggage to handle. The station is really busy this morning, and new security
measures are taking their toll. Any thought of being able to look out to the
platforms or even visit them is gone. Before boarding any train photo id and
ticket are matched. Photo id is required at ticket purchase time as well
(although not if you use a self serve ticket machine). I find my gate and
await the arrival of my train, The Carolinian, from New York.
Train #79 is called and I head out to the platform. I am booked business
class, and head for that car. The attendant assigns a seat on the platform—
there are no window seats available. I board the "Carolina Business Class"
car, an Amfleet car specially lettered, and find my seat.
The car is a typical "Custom Class" Amfleet car, nice spacious seats and fine
all around, but the small Amfleet windows make viewing hard—especially
from an aisle seat. Carolina Business Class ($15 extra fare) gives you the
better seats, beverage service in the car and complimentary headphones with
video and audio entertainment. I settle in and check things out. Three of the
eight video monitors in the car are papered "Out of Service", including the
one I would look to. I didn't take the train to watch movies anyways! Our
Business Class attendant explains how things work, there are no hot
beverages today because New York forgot the pump pots. But you could get
them at the dinette car, just show your business class ticket stub for the hot
beverages. Only problem, the dinette is way at the other end of the train.
We depart on time (1000) and head out of Washington, crossing the
Potomac River into Virginia. We have P42 #146 on the point (in new
Amtrak colours), a Horizon dinette with tables, three Amfleet coaches, our
Business Class car, two baggage cars and a merchandise car. As we head
south, I note a gentleman sitting on the aisle seat by himself—he is happy to
offer me the window seat as long as I am not bothered by the cord for his
laptop. I'm not!
Our train has a good load—business class is sold out on this segment and the
coaches are also busy. The fall colours are nice as we roll along CSX rails.
The line takes us right down the center of Main Street in several towns,
definitely an interesting highlight of the trip. We keep to time through
Alexandria, Virginia and on through Petersburg, crossing into North
Carolina and arriving Rocky Mount at 1455. A docent from the State of
North Carolina boards here and stays with the train all the way to Charlotte.
He talks to all as they wish and provides stories and insight into the state. Cy
is his name, and he's great.
At Wilson, we leave CSX rails and start to wander across to the west on
single track owned by the state and operated by Norfolk Southern. The horn
on the locomotive never stops blowing, it seems, as we cross streets at grade
almost continuously. We stop at Raleigh and arrive and depart within five
minutes of schedule. Its now getting dark, but only a couple of hours to go or
so we think. We're in East Durham when suddenly the air dumps and we go
into emergency. Outside the window, I notice a cloud of dust as we cross the
next street. The train stops—we have hit a car! It is a long stop, so we begin
to suspect that this is serious. There are lots of others on board heading to
Salisbury with me and several scanners. After the emergency calls we hear
calls for Norfolk Southern police, Amtrak police, insurance people and train
inspectors. The time is 1705, we don't move again until 1945.
Next day on the news we learn that it was indeed serious. For reasons
unknown to anyone, a female driver decided to pull around four cars stopped
at the crossing gates (the grade crossing was protected with both lights and
gates) and proceeded to drive right into the side of our locomotive as we
were passing at about 50 mph. The Thunderbird is totaled, her passenger
dead, and the driver critical. All to save ten seconds wait for an eight car
passenger train?
The train is inspected and declared fine, and we proceed to Salisbury where
we are picked up by volunteer drivers in vans and driven to our hotel. While
we are finally there I have one more hurdle—the hotel doesn't have my
reservation. I find my confirmation number—I'm in!
Tuesday, November 6 is a day to explore Salisbury. Founded in 1753 there
is a lot of history. I struggle to walk into town (pedestrian friendly its not
here on the highway), and discover there is a little bus system—three routes,
three buses in the fleet. It takes me to the Salisbury depot, right where I want
to go. The heritage Southern Railway depot is Spanish styled and restored,
used as a banquet and meeting hall these days. The Norfolk Southern
mainline out front is busy, this is also the junction point for the line to
Asheville, NC. The lovely sunny morning makes for great photography.
After a while I walk the town (it takes two hours) and then bus out to
Spencer where I enjoy the sights of a restored southern GP30 on the
Museum excursion train. There is no charge for this museum, just for the
train ride! Wednesday, November 7 is fully given to ARM board work, then
a reception in the evening kicks off the convention.
Thursday, November 8 is the first convention outing and, with 350 people,
quite a logistical exercise. The organizing committee has it all in hand. We
bus down to the Salisbury depot (the seven coaches will deadhead to meet us
in Charlotte) to catch the North Carolina train the Piedmont. North Carolina
really supports passenger service, it helps fund the Amtrak Carolinian I cam
down on, and funds the operation of the Piedmont, which runs daily between
Raleigh and Charlotte, against the schedule of the Carolinian. What makes
this train different is the equipment—and the class of operation. As we line
up on the platform, the station agent looks a little bewildered—he knows we
are coming, but can't recall when he last loaded 350 passengers at Salisbury!
North Carolina also knows we are coming, and instead of the usual
locomotive and four car consist, the Piedmont arrives with North Carolina
F59PHI #1755 / GP40-2 motive power, then an eight car consist of baggage,
diner, coach, full dome lounge (ex MILW), and four more coaches. The
equipment is all rebuilt Amtrak Heritage fleet, painted with the Amtrak tri-
stripe colours but lettered for the train with all cars named. Inside, the train
is spotless with lovely gray tone upholstery and carpet, and big clean
windows! We have been organized to board by coach, all doors open, and
within five minutes we are on our way to Charlotte, about an hour away. Our
group has the dome and the four trailing coaches. Seatbacks have pamphlets
about rail service in the state, schedules and each seat has a book for us
entitled "The Railroads Were Our Magic Carpet" - short stories written by
state citizens about their rail experiences. This is the way it should be! We
arrive OT at 1100k.
Our fleet of coaches picks us up at the station (which is away from
downtown), and we head for the Charlotte Trolley. We have more than
enough time there to ride the trolley (one car, powered by a generator car as
tracks are being rebuilt and no overhead is available). Interestingly,
Charlotte is building LRT and the trolley now rides new welded rail with
concrete ties under construction! A police officer is aboard every trip to flag
grade crossings where signals are not yet operational! After this, we head for
the Carolinas Aviation Museum, then back for the Piedmont train back to
Salisbury. A reception is provided on arrival in the historic depot—an
appropriate location and very nice.
Friday is again conference day, then Saturday is set aside for the visit to the
host museum. The North Carolina Transportation Museum, while
representing all aspects of transport in principle, is essentially a railroad
museum. Based on 57 acres of Southern Railway land deeded to the state in
the 1977 and 1981, this is a great place and we are greeted by another
beautiful morning. This was the Southern Railway's major maintenance
shop, located exactly half way along its mainline between Washington, DC
and Atlanta, GA. Centre piece is the 37 stall Robert Julian Roundhouse,
home to the rail exhibits and maintenance operations for the museum's
collection.
The host museum has quite a show for us, starting with a Parade of Power
which sees operating locomotives moved one by one onto the turntable and
given a 360 degree spin for all to enjoy. We gather and the show starts. First
out is Buffalo Creek & Gauley 2—8—0 #604, a real sight under steam on
this crisp morning. This engine will be the power for the excursion train over
the weekend (page 35), and she is spotless! Next out is the Graham County
three truck Shay, again a lovely locomotive. I am near her and bring home
her cinders all over my shirt! The Shay is the guest operator steam engine
for the day. Next come the diesels, and for someone with a soft heart for
GM's rounded nosed creatures, it is really something to see. Onto the
turntable comes Southern E8A #6900, resplendent in Southern Crescent
green, gold and white (page 35). Next, Southern FP7A #6133 makes its way
out for a spin, followed by Southern GP30 (high nosed) #2601. She will be
the diesel loco today for guest operations. Also operating, but not put on the
turntable, is a very rare E3A, Atlantic Coast Line #105.
After the parade, the rest of the day is spent enjoying the museum. There are
lots of special activities, including a neat tour of the un-restored parts of the
former SR complex. In the paint shop, a unique shorty three way combine—
RPO / baggage / coach! The roundhouse, the largest remaining in North
America, is full of treasures and great exhibits. The 100 foot electrically
powered turntable brings visions of what ours will look like when we get it
installed. It is a perfectly ideal day, and reaches a warm 70 degrees outside!
All day, train operations go on with regular passes and sounds from the 2-8-
0 on the excursion train followed by the unique roar of the Shay and the purr
of the GP30, as the three consists cycle around the museum's track. The ride
starts at the shop, then heads south to end of track (the NS yard lead), then
returns in reverse through the shop complex, past Barber Junction station,
then moves forward barnstorming up the hill back to the shop. It is short, but
enjoyable The best place to observe, without a doubt, is on the final grade.
A major facility expansion is currently underway, with the Heavy Erecting
Shop being rebuilt into a History of North Carolina Transportation exhibit-a
$30 million plus project. It is massive project, and I meet the Chair of the
operation and the driving force behind the entire museum over the years. He
reads my name tag and says, "I've been looking for you! I read the piece you
wrote for the ARM Quarterly about Governance Structure and its right on!
I've followed West Coast Railway's progress over the past several years and
you people are dong things right." I leave with slightly swelled head, a great
day and a great compliment to our organization and people, way down here
in North Carolina!
Sunday, November 11—after ARM business all morning I return to the
museum for the afternoon—just can't get too much of it! Then its back to
the Holiday Inn to pack for the trip home. Monday AM finds me down at the
Salisbury depot once again, this time for the Carolinian back to Washington.
The train arrives on time behind P42 #146 once again, but is a car shorter
than last time. Business Class reservation and ticket in hand, I am advised as
I go to board that there is no Business Class car today, but I will be able to
get a refund once I get to Washington if I wish (for the difference). The
conductor sends us all into one coach, it is full other than a very few aisle
seats. I rebel and go back to the next car which is empty and get chastised by
the conductor. Having had enough, I use my "I have a business class ticket
and you can't provide that, but surely I can get a window seat". He relents
and I have a window.
We head north retracing our steps to Washington, DC. At Greensboro,
passengers boarding say a plane has gone down in New York, soon rumours
start flying. At Durham, a heavy crowd boards—New York air space is
closed—we expect the worst. At Raleigh, the train is now sold out, but we
are now clear it is an accident. It's a long ride to Washington on a tired and
hard Amfleet coach seat with not a single spare space to be had. The
checking for photo id at boarding gets us behind schedule, we finally arrive
Washington at 1845k, 1 hour 45 minutes late. I go to the Amtrak ticket
window and apply for my $15 Business Class refund.
Now its all over but the trip home. I taxi out to my accommodation at
Washington Dulles, and next morning check in for the flights home. Security
at Dulles is evident, armed soldiers throughout the airport, but the check in
procedure and scan check is no different (in Canada, they opened and
inspected my camera bag each time, here they just put it through the
scanner). I board Air Canada 3345 for Toronto (34 passengers, A320
aircraft) then connect to a full flight 101 for Vancouver (B 767). Another
trip has come to an end!