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It was time for another European adventure, and so we set out in October for something familiar-and something new-a formula your editor and wife have come to very much enjoy. Our familiar destination was to be Vienna, Austria-somewhere we have been before and very much enjoyed. Something new turned out to be side trips to Budapest, Hungary and Salzburg.
Saturday, October 3-it was bus, boat, train and plane-and all in our first day! Your editor has become a real fan of the new Canada Line as a way of getting to the airport, and so the two of us walked down to Lonsdale and 21st, boarded the #230 bus for Lonsdale Quay, and shortly were on the 0800 SeaBus for Waterfront Station. Arriving there, it is an easy walk into the station, down the elevator, and onto the platform where we caught a waiting Canada Line train for YVR. We were in the terminal checking in with Air Canada at 0850, and aboard our flight to Toronto at 1100 on an A320 aircraft. At Toronto, we changed to a B767 for a flight to Munich, where we changed to a Lufthansa A 319 for the short flight to Vienna, arriving there around noon on Sunday, October 4. A taxi ride to the city, and by 1300 we were checked in at our hotel in Vienna, and got settled before heading out to visit the town.
Sunday, October 4-Settled in, we head out to the city centre-it is just a short walk from our hotel to the famous Opera House. The first order of business is to pick up a pass to the city's
transit systems. This turns out to be the bargain of the trip, a seven day unlimited pass for the streetcars, subways and buses is just 14 Euros! Arriving at the Inner Ring it is good to immediately see that the classic streamlined streetcars are still in operation (photo left) -as we spend the week we note that they outnumber the newer Siemens articulated low floor units about three to one. After an introductory walk, we return to the hotel tired and ready for an early bedtime due the long travel time.
Monday, October 5-The day starts with a walk around the core of the city. Vienna's architecture is absolutely beautiful and one of the reasons the city is such a draw. The parks and gardens are also very special. When it is time for a rest, we hop in the #2 streetcar and ride out to the Prater (Vienna's classic city park) where there are acres of forest and trails, as well as a significant amusement park with many rides, and some great restaurants. The all time classic is the giant wheel - built in 1898. The “cars” on the wheel are almost like vintage wooden railcars, accommodating around 20 people each. The views from the top are awesome. After the ride we enjoy a great traditional Viennese lunch at one of the outdoor restaurants, ride the Lilliputbahn (little train that goes about 4 km through the park) then catch the #32 streetcar back to the city centre.
Tuesday, October 6-Today's starting destination is Schonbrunn Palace and its spectacular gardens, and we get there with a ride on the U-Bahn (Subway). The U4 line is just a couple of blocks from our hotel, and the trains run every 4 minutes. There are 6 U-Bahn lines in Vienna, most operate traditional subway style equipment, but the U6 (mostly above ground) runs Bombardier three car articulated sets coupled together in fours-for 12 units per train (photo)
After enjoying the gardens for the morning, we again hop on the U4 and ride all the way to the end of the line, Heligenstadt Station. There are two steam locos parked here, a 4-6-2T (photo) and a 2-8-0 that merit a look. Here we decide to take a ride on the Regional train system east along the Danube River, and choose a place called Tulln as our destination. We have no idea what might be there, but are soon cruising along on our double deck electric locomotive powered “Wiesel” train. It is clean, smooth and a nice ride. (photo below)
Tulln turns out to be a nice town on the Danube, we enjoy a walk and a late lunch on the deck of a retired river cruise boat while watching the river traffic go by. A most pleasant afternoon, then a return to Vienna on a single level MU electric train.
Wednesday, October 7-Today's destination is Budapest, Hungary, so there is an early start on the U4 with a connection to the U6 and a short ride to Westbahnhof station. We purchase a 2nd class ticket to Budapest return (70 Euros) and prepare to catch the 0650 departure. We board RailJet 41 for Budapest, and discover this to be Austria's newest and high speed train.
This train (photo above, Vienna Westbahnhof Track 6) has class and is very well done-brand new equipment with a consist of electric locomotive, four 2nd class coaches, bistro car, 1st class coach and Premium class coach with cab control end. The train is decorated outside in a red and maroon scheme with special RailJet script lettering. Inside, every seat has a special RailJet 41 brochure in multi languages, welcoming us aboard, describing the train's services and the route and timetable to Budapest. Monitors throughout the coach show progress along the route, station stops and train speed. The seats, even in second class, are spacious and comfortable. The ride is not all that fast by European standards; we hit 140 kph tops, but this is a traditional double track mixed use rail line. It is an extremely smooth ride. There is no border crossing, soon we are in Hungary. We enjoy a coffee from the cart attendant that comes through along the way, and arrive Budapest early at 0940 (0949 scheduled).
Budapest is all new for us, and their currency also different event though Hungary is now in the EU. We spend a great day exploring the city and its highlights on foot, and also ride on the classic bright yellow trams (photo below)
Another highlight is the old funicular railway to the castle (photo left) on the top of the hill of Buda (Buda is on one side of the Danube and Pest the other). The Palace on the hill, the Castle District, and the view across the Danube River to the spectacular houses of parliament buildings on the Pest side are quite something to behold. This is certainly a highlight of our Budapest visit.
Not to be missed is the Heroes Monument-we take the M1 subway to get there. This turns out to be a classic- the world's oldest subway system - with small three car trains and lovely clean and decoratively tiled vintage stations. The monument and square is worth the visit, then we hop the M1 back to the city and take a tram out to the city market.
With a train every hour between Vienna and Budapest, getting back is not an issue. We are tired and ready to return by 1630, so walk back to the station where we are able to walk right aboard the 1710 train for Vienna. This is a traditional OBB (Austrian Railways) EuroCity train, with electric locomotive, three 2nd class coaches, diner and 1st class coach. We select the one 2nd class coach that is not compartments and secure a double seat facing forward. The return trip is good, the real treat being the full service dining car with linens. We enjoy a great hot meal in the diner from the extensive menu. Arrival is on time at 2000.
Friday, October 9-Thursday was another stay around Vienna day and we enjoyed walking along the Danube among other things. Here we discover a steam train made into a restaurant, the 2-10-0 locomotive is impressive, however the coaches (dining cars) appear to have seen better days, and it doesn't appear to be currently operating.
On Friday we are off on another rail trip, this time a day trip to Salzburg, another destination new to us. After heading over to Westbahnhof again on the U4 / U6, we purchase tickets and board a now familiar RailJet consist. This train, RailJet 262, is bound for Munich, Germany and departs at 0820. It is a busy train, and has a double consist-two complete RailJet's connected together. This train is as smooth as the other one, and a bit faster as we travel over new high speed track in several places at speeds to 200 kph. We arrive on time at 1055.
Salzburg is a delight, and a trolley bus mecca as the streets are operated by an extensive fleet of articulated trolley coaches. It is also the 100th anniversary of electric transit in Salzburg,
celebrated with a short (one block) line of streetcar track operating a vintage four wheel car. (photo left with a vintage trolley bus in service.)
The home of Mozart is very much music themed, and the castle on the hill a delightful place to explore (accessed by another funicular railway). We walk the city extensively, it has very nice pedestrian only areas. Then, we head back to the station to return to Vienna. Here a bit of a surprise as at the platform is Majestic Imperator-a train of Orient Express type cars, dining cars all set up with linens, crystals etc. and a kitchen car. It pulls ahead in a while and boards a group of people who are heading out for a wonderful dining experience, no doubt (photo below, Salzburg station track 3)
As for us, the next train from Salzburg to Vienna is the Transalpin-a long distance train that operates from Switzerland to Vienna. We debate whether to try it, however as it arrives we see it is a very long train, and spot a second class car towards the rear with lots of space. So, we board and soon are on our way-a bit different from the RailJet but with the perspective of a long train curving through the hilly country. We are a bit late departing at 1605 (40 minutes off), but the ride is pleasant. Consist is two electric locos, 1st class coach, 1st class glass topped coach, two more 1st class coaches, diner, and then ten 2nd class coaches. Arrival at Vienna is around 1930 after a great day in beautiful Salzburg.
Monday October 12, 2009-our remaining two days in Vienna are spent just enjoying the city and its many activities and sights. We ride the streetcars and subways now as a matter of course in getting around, and also enjoy the vineyards and wine country around Grinzing.
Monday AM is time to head home, and we taxi out to the airport and check in for our flights. Austrian Airlines departs for London Heathrow at 0700, the A 320 is one of the most crowded we have experienced in terms of lacking legroom. At Heathrow we change terminals efficiently and soon are on a comfortable Air Canada B777 bound non stop for Vancouver. We depart and arrive on time, another European adventure is in the record books. Now to enjoy the many photographs we both took as a way of recalling great memories of another trip.
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